Las Islas Canaria: rapid speaking locals, beaches and deciding to live with a stranger for a month.

Wednesday May 31

Today I left Edinburgh to make my way to The Canary Islands. It's a bit of a killer trip; Edinburgh to Ireland early in the morning (Dublin) with a layover until my flight in the afternoon to Gran Canaria. It's not enough time to head out and do things, and the weather is rubbish anyway. I can't complain though, it's been very smooth sailing. I had a fantastic travel agent, Kirby from Jamison travel organise all of my millions of flights quickly and inexpensively and avoided  all delays wherever possible. I used to think that booking flights with a travel agent was lazy and unnecessary. WRONG! Booking flights through a travel agent is the greatest idea. Travel agents don't book the wrong dates for flights, something that I am very good at. If you need a good travel agent, I recommend Kirby at Jamison Travel.

I arrived at the hostel I booked in Gran Canaria. Off to bed to get some much needed rest to be able to start my day tomorrow in Gran Canaria.




Thursday June 1

I have traveled to a few Spanish speaking countries to date: Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Ecuador, Galapagos and Spain. However, each time I travel, the speed at what people speak Spanish always throws me.  It's a bit worse this time as I've put more pressure on myself  to be able to speak better and understand more. Over the last 2 years I have been doing weekly/fortnightly lessons in Lithuanian and Spanish to further my abilities. the owners of the hostel are nice and speak mostly Spanish, and it's good practice for me. the problem I find with a lot of Native Spanish speakers, is that if you can't keep up eith their pace and you ask them to slow down, they start speaking English. I don't want people to speak English with me unless if it's absolutely necessary, I just need people to slow down.

I can't lie,  coming to Gran Canaria threw me.  Like my Spanish, I departed Australia feeling confident that I was also an 'intermediate' surfer. Today's experiences pushed my ego to the curb. It's off season, so there were only 3 of us staying at the hostel. One of the guests was  a girl from Germany who spoke fluent Spanish and when I asked if she wanted to have dinner (with a long and sweetly written letter) responded 'I'm here with other people and I'm here to eat, sleep and surf, so I'll let you know.' Um yeah, whatever. I totally get it if people have other things on their agenda, that's fine, but at least pretend to give a crap when you decline someone.

The other person in the hostel was an Italian guy 'Francesco' who spoke virtually no Spanish or English and asked me out for dinner. I get it, an Italian guy asks a solo girl out to dinner, I should have seen this coming. The thing is, when you are on you own, you should really welcome all the invitations you can (while using your common sense). You need to be open and give people a chance, otherwise you will miss out on great experiences and will be very lonely. It's not the same as being at home where you have your usual circle of people and all the usual comforts and familiar places and people. Anyway, I'll tell you about dinner with Franceso later

I started my day with my strength and stretch exercises and run (as usual). This would be the high lite of my day. Running and exercise in general always makes me feel good. And traveling, I get to see and find so much cool stuff. One guy on a bicycle noted to me how fast I was running (I was doing intervals, which make you look extremely fast when you are running the 'fast interval'. Maybe that was to hit on me, maybe it was to make conversation. I don't care, I'm taking the compliment. Your ego tends to be fed a lot less when you are on your own.

Here are some photos of Gran Canaria on my run. note the interesting contrast of beaches, volcanoes and the city:

There are many Islands within the Canary Islands. Gran Canaria is the most populated: nearly 1 million people. Other Islands within the Canary Islands include: Tenerife, Las Palmas, Fueterventura and Lanzarote.

I later went to the surf shop to ask about surf board hire and surf conditions. I have this great knack of getting terrible advice at surf shops from people who seem to a be a bit too cool or perhaps don't care,maybe both! Surfing is awesome as is the ocean but surf culture has something to be said for. I think the only surfer who I will listen to is Shane, an ex professional surfer from Broulee who my friend Ed and I have had lessons with;he is honest, accurate and encouraging.

Ed and I have been surfing about once a week for the last 1-2 years at Broulee in NSW Australia. We make the 2 hour 15 minute drive each way from Canberra and it's all totally been worth it. I now ride a 7'6 epoxy board at home (after our 9 foot foam boards eventually broke in half in the surf).

So anyway, I go in to the surf shop twice. The first time in the morning, they say I can try and board I want and can swap it if it's not working out for me. They say that the surf is too small (ity looks small and messy) and that it would be better to come back at about 1500.

I come back at 1500. The surf looks crazy, and at home, if it looked like this, I probably wouldn't bother. But, I'm here and I don't want to miss out on giving it a go. I decide to start off with a giant foam board to increase my chances of getting waves.  I tell  a different guy at the surf shop that I'd like to get a big foamie. He tells me that I can't do that, as it will probably break in half in the surf. When someone tells you that a board is likely to break in half in the surf, you need to know that the conditions ARE rough. He tells me to try the 6'6 foam board. I'm not sure about this, as it's significantly smaller than my board and home. He explains 'it's not actually that small, as it's made of foam'. More fibs. I give it a go and catch nothing, I feel almost sea sick from how choppy it is. I'm told that if you can surf in the Canary Islands, then I can surf anywhere in the world. PS-that means that the surf here is really challenging. The waves here are fast and spontaneous. I'm beginning to think more in tune my cousin Dana more when she tells me that she has decided that Australia has the best surf and not to bother anywhere else, due to her own experiences surfing overseas. In fairness, no one was really catching anything this afternoon. I want my 10 Euros back!

I have dinner with Francesco and we are having fun, despite not being able to say much to each other. How the hell is this guy getting around with basically no English or Spanish? Anyway, I get my first alarm bells when he manages to make some comparison about the colour green matching my eyes then finding out if I am married or have kids. Then he pays for dinner without me knowing and refuses to let me contribute. I know what's coming. We walk back to the hostel (his room is next to mine). I wish him goodnight and then he goes in for the kiss-about 3 times. Yuck! Can't blame a guy for trying, but it's all very awkward. I stay in my room for the rest of the night to avoid him, I really want to make a peppermint tea, but he is in the kitchen and it's just not worth it. He knocks on my door later and has googled how to say 'good luck with your travels'.

I feel defeated, my ego is defeated. I'm wondering what I am doing here and think genuinely about coming home, but I know that would be a waste. I call Mum and message my Spanish teacher telling them the same thing. A lot of people travel to see pretty things and to go on an adventure. Other people like to do this as well, but whether or not people want to admit it, people often travel when they have lost something or are trying to find something. I put a lot of pressure on myself this trip to have things figured out. I feel lost and displaced in a lot of ways and have felt that way on and off for years now. I don't want to make this a pity party, honestly, I know I have good things in my life and I am grateful for those things. I have a lot of things that help me to feel like I belong; family, friends, work, sport and hobbies, my house. But at other times, I feel so displaced and I can't quite put my finger on it. I feel like other people know their course and are happy with that. I feel sad because at this stage, I don't think that I will feel any more 'settled' the end of my trip, and I don't know what to do with that feeling. I think the best thing that I can do is to try to make the most of every day here and experience everything for what it is and try not to expect anything.





Friday June 2nd

I speak to my friend Jess in the morning before I leave. It's so great to talk to loved ones when you are away and feeling shitty. Loved ones from home are the constant reminder that you are okay, everything is okay and will be okay, that you have good things waiting for you at home and that although things might feel chaotic, not much is changing at home. It's reassuring. Loved ones are your support, and you appreciate it the most when things are a bit tough.

I'm freaking out as I decided a while ago that I would spend about a month in Canary Islands to get immersed in the language and to surf. I'm wondering now what this will look like for me.

I also wanted to volunteer in The Canary Islands but all the people I messaged wither wouldn't take me or didn't write back. I got a response from a cool surf hostel, but they said they asked for a minimum of ten weeks to volunteer. 10 weeks? Who has ten weeks available in the year to volunteer? I'm all for it if you can do it, but it's a big ask. So, I try out 'Couchsurfing' a website where travelers and hosts can offer to hang out and host each other. I hung ou with a German girl called Sandra who was studying in Canberra from Couchsurfing. Sandra and a group of us went out to the fireworks and Sandra came to hear me speak at a Psychology case study night at at the Australian National University. I am now meeting up with Sandra when I go to Germany this year! It's my first time using this website and I have a few offers of people offering to host me. Patricio, is a 26 year old local from the island of Lanzarote and offered for me to stay with him in exchange for English practice. Patricio and I are both new to the website. Everyone I spoke to about this was worried about this. Why would anyone be willing to give a room out rent free to a stranger? What is the ulterior  motive? Why would someone give a room for free when they could rent it on airbnb

And now I am freaking out too. I have a back up plan to stay at a hostel if it doesn't work out. I really want this to work out....

I arrive in Lanzarote and things have changed a lot for me very quickly, in a positive way. Lanzarote has a population of about 134 thousand people, so it's small and more what I am used to. Patricio had to go back to work so he asks for his friend Atasara from his work to collect me from the aiport. Atasara is beautiful inside and out, she has a good sense of humour and letss me in to Patricio's place. We help ourselves to Patricio's gin and tonic and send him a photo and we spend the afternoon at the beach together.

Rasa and Atasara. Atasara's mother is English but she grew up in Lanzarote. Atasara is a less common and traditional Canarian name. Atasara's smile, hair and demeanor makes me think of my Spanish teacher (and now friend) Cristina in Canberra.

I meet Patricio and I automatically feel like I have nothing to worry about. Patricio and Atasara have met all the Spanish cliches in the best way possible;easy going people who want to have fun, they are warm, hospitable, kind, trusting and love to eat, drink and relax. Patricio has done some study in software engineering but works in hospitality. Lanzarote's main industries are tourism and Nursing (although the Nurses here seem to have less qualifications that in Australia, they are more like 'nursing assistant's).  I have my own room and we are staying in a resort complex with a pool, across from the beach:







Patricio and I both love films. Patricio (or Patro) loves rubix cubes and chess too. I'm teaching Patro about the importance of eating vegetables and will introduce a recycling bin while I am here. :P. The Brit's love it here, they tend to be a bit of a cohort of tattooed and chubby lobsters, floating in a pool with a beer in their hands.. Think of the ugly Australian's you will encounter in Thailand or Bali. Except I think the Brit's are better behaved here.



Saturday June 3


Patricio takes us out sightseeing in Lanzarote on the weekend, which is really kind. He is super easy going and is up to just about anything, even if he has already taken tourists to these places 5 or 6 times, he still enjoys going. We spend most of the day at Timanfaya National park; volcanic landscapes with 'geysers' (a hot spring in which water intermittently boils, sending a tall column of water and steam into the air).

Rasa and Patricio at Timanfaya National Park.

 

 
 Sunday June 4

Patricio changes his car around to use the Jeep so we can do some more exploring. We head to Los Hervderos, Volcanic Coast with sea caves and views and eat sandwiches and talk about life at 'La Santa. We check out 'Famara' the 'beginner surf beach' no one is in the surf as it looks rubbish and is windy as frankfurters. The Canary Islands stay in the mid twenties most of the year, but right now is closer to 30 degrees and some days are very windy.

Tuesday June 6

I'm feeling like a bit of a bum at the moment and my usual brain is telling me that I should be working. I know that when I go back to work though, that I will be wishing to have all of this free time back, and I don't miss the stress of work. I miss the rewarding bits and making a contribution, but I don't miss the stress. I've reached out in every way to see if I can volunteer, I've put my feelers out. but if I get no response then I feel like the universe IS TELLING ME TO BE A BEACH BUM.

I'm enjoying having a quiet place to stay and the company. Patricio's English is excellent but he is a perfectionist. We have Spanish only time and we make dinner each night together and then take turns picking a movie, which is great. I actually enjoy cooking, but  at home, I cram in too many activities outside of work to have the time to do cooking this often. This is nice, I am quite spoiled here. Every morning I run on the beach and go for a swim in the ocean. I am going to try and measure out some distances in the ocean soon to be able to do some ocean swims. Patricio didn't even freak out when I lost his spare key on my second day here. He organised for Atasara to bring me a second key. I am learning a lot from people around me, I am learning to relax more, but also to be more careful with people's keys...

I'm going to try surfing again tomorrow, the forecast is meant to be better and now that my ego is left behind for now, I'm going to go in a beginner lesson for half a day. Then I will have 'intercambios' night where people meet together to speak half the time in Spanish and half the time in English/other language. Then I  plan to  trial  local kickboxing gym which is in walking distances. I am the extreme bum today and then have way to much packed in tomorrow, as it tuns out that everything is planned for a Wednesday, but it should be fun!

I've found out that The Canary Islands are closer to the African Coast than the Mediterranean Sea. I've found return flights to Morocco next week for less than $400 AUD return, so maybe I will go there too, why not. We have a camping trip organised with Patro's friends Salva and Laura who I previously met. They are a lovely couple (both fitness instructors) with a doggie and cat from a refuge. Salva and Laura don't really speak much English, which is great practice for all of us.

Fueteventura, another Island in the Canary Islands is also about a 15 minute boat ride away, so Patricio and I might make a trip out there on the weekend.


Thursday June 8

 I'm in the swing of things of now. Initially I thought about making a trip to Morocco while I'm here, and it would be cool to go there, but at the same time, I'm really enjoying my time here in Lanzarote. I deliberately wanted to give myself a month to use my Spanish frequently and to surf and be in the sun, and here I am. There are also other islands to visit within the Canary Islands that are cheap to get to. Fueterventura is only a 15 minute bike ride away and the other Islands cost less than $100 AUD one way to get to. Dad reminded me on Whats app today that I had another invitation on couchsurfing to visit 'Nizar' a guy from a hippy commune in Tenerife (a different Island). Although I probably can't see myself living for a month in a hippy commune, it would be a great experience to visit I don't have any maps on my phone or a local sim though, so I've messaged Nizar to see if him or one of his friends would be able to meet me somewhere, we'll see! I'd like to do a big trip to Africa in the future anyway. If I can still maintain my current approach to taking risks, getting uncomfortable and getting in to adventure, 'waves for change' is the kind of program I would like to get involved in. It is a program that uses counseling and surfing to help enable young people who have experienced trauma in Africa:

http://www.waves-for-change.org

I believe that Patricio and I will go to Fueterventura this weekend and maybe do some snorkeling. Next weekend we will go camping with Laura and Salva.

Yesterday I made it too all of my set activities as they all fell on the same day. It was a huge day. I ended up incredibly sore, tired and deydrated, but it was definitely worth it. My day yesterday involved surfing, a language exchange group and the kikboxing. Here is how it all unfolded:

Surfing at Famara beach:

Continuing on from what I talked about earlier, the surf conditions here are harder to work with than in Australia. I was almost turned off giving the surf another chance at all but decided that I'd give it a go with a lesson and would go in the beginner class.

I turned up for my lesson and explained the same. We went around the group stating our surf experience and I said I had been surfing for a year in Australia but it was my first time at Famara (trying to go in to the beginner class). The instructor gave me a look that said 'no way are you going to join the beginner class'. And so, I got sent off with a boy, probably about 10 'Dennis' from Latvia who said he had surfed for about 2 seasons in the Canary Islands and we would go with Inda (his name is from Basque). Inda can't be older than 20 and he is everything you want in a surf instructor; he has a super cheerful and encouraging nature, never runs out of energy and has the perfect wavey and long surfey hair and dark skin. Inda starts us off on the beach with hand drawn diagrams in the sand about what we are going to do for the day. When being quizzed about our knowledge of the surf, Dennis says that you should catch the wave after it breaks and swim against the current if you get caught in a rip, which is a little concerning. Inda draws 'S' shapes in the sand and says that this is what we are going to work on today. Have you ever seen the expert surfers turning left and right on waves in quick succession? These are surfers who are making the S shape. When Inda asks us to show on our boards on the beach how we turn on waves, he realises pretty quickly that we are not yet capable of making S shapes. very politely, Inda says to not worry about making the S shapes but to practice turning left and right  on the waves; turn left on one wave and turn right on the next wave you catch. I explain to Inda that I have only been able to make constant decisive turns once, the week before I left to go for Europe.

We head out to make our way out the back to try and catch some green waves (catching the wave before it breaks and riding it all the way through).  The conditions look as crap as they did on the weekend but there is far less wind. Again, If I saw these conditions at Broulee at home, I probably wouldn't bother getting in the water, but I'm here and I need to give it a go. There are so many waves breaking everywhere that it's exhausting trying to get out. I catch a couple of white water waves and turn right all the way through, which is cool but I don't think Inda cares too much as you are not meant to be catching white wash once you have moved past beginner stages of surfing. Inda advises us to go back in to the beach twice and walk across the beach to a different spot to find an easier way to get it.

Inda teaches me a new way to try and survive past all the breaking waves on the way in; you need to do a plank on the board each time and let the water run through the middle of you and the board.It works well but as you can imagine, it uses a lot of energy as you are essentially doing a plank every few seconds. I'm glad I do my planks in the morning, otherwise it would have been impossible. After getting smashed by many waves and struggling to get out the back, Inda tells us to wait until the set of waves stop. I had one opportunity and I paddled hard to get out the back, determined not to get over each wave before it broke. I finally made it out the back and wondered if I'd have any energy left to catch  a wave, I was totally puffed and my shoulders were sore from paddling. At this point I realise that Dennis didn't make it out. Inda tells me he is going to check on Dennis and that Inda will come back to meet me out the back after. I tried to catch a couple of waves and are thrown off; they are big, fast and powerful. I need to say here that I used to fear deep water and it probably took me about 6 months to be able to paddle out the back. Now I paddle out 200 meters or more and it just feels normal. That fear of getting smashed by a wave is still always there, but here's the thing, you have a split second between missing a wave (falling of the back) and having the wave smash on your head, it's been these two pl;aces that you will catch the perfect wave. Surfing always makes me feel mindful, you cannot focus on something other than the ocean when you are surfing, because you won't be able to catch a wave. Even getting dumped is a good experience; you feel so alive because you initially feel so close to death.

Inda and are having a good chat in between waves, half in English and half in Spanish. Inda is so excited to hear that I am from Australia and talkes about dreaming of going there.

I decided a while back that even if you don't catch a wave, it's okay, because you got to swim in the ocean and get some good paddling practicve. Honestly, all beaches are so beautiful, and you have the priveladge to be in the middle of the ocean. With this Volcanic backdrop, how could you be unhappy?

 When conditions are good, you feel a like a pro cause you can catch every wave. When conditions are difficult and you can manage to catch a green wave, it makes you feel like a million bucks.

I spotted a wave that looked okay, Inda told me to go for it; 'PADDLE! PADDLE! PADDLE!' Inda yells. I caught it, I caught a giant, powerful wave in Famara, I turned left and turned the whole way. My faith in my surfing is again restored. The feel of catching a green wave never wear off. Ed and I ahave talked about it a lot. When you feel you have caught the wave; you have to stand up as  quickly as you can. Ed says : 'that time when you feel you are going to die is when you need to stand up' and it's true.

After 2 hours 45 mind in the surf, we head out, my shoulders ache but I;m happy. There are only 4 buses back to Arricife from Famara for the whole day, and then I need to get another bus back to Puerto Del Carmen. I'm enjoying pretending I'm a little local. It takes me 3 and a half hours in waiting and bus time to get back; that's across a 60km in total distance of an Island. :P Quick shower and then off to my language exchange. In my next surf, I will try and hire a board and go in without a lesson so that I can catch the 1030am bus back to Arricife, wish me luck!

Language exchange 'Intercambios':

I'm grateful that I am in walking distance of great opportunities like this language exchange group. A place and time is arranged and anyone can turn up to practice different languages at a cafe. I get lots of compliments about my Spanish (again restoring my faith in my language ability). I fall in to conversation with people quickly as we sit on a roof top cafe.

I exchange emails and get recommendation about a place where I could volunteer. We talk about our work, our family and life in general. There are a couple of these classes held through the week so I will try and go to them all.





Powerhouse kickboxing:

I've been doing kickboxing for about 6 months in Canberra with 'Chopper Muay Thai' and I've loved all of it. I initially started kickboxing to stay strong, learn a skill and take pressure off my knees. Now I'm a addicted. Gaz, my instructor at home is amazing and I almost didn't want to go overseas because I couldn't take my kickboxing classes with me. I'm stronger and fitter than I've ever been and I love learning martial arts as it;s totally new for me.

This class in Lanzarote is about a 7 minute walk from where I am living and it's 40 Euro for unlimited classes for a month. The class is different, the teacher is not a competitive fighter like Gaz at home, but he's still a machine, he's a good teacher and he can only really speak Spanish which adds to the experience. Only two of us were in the class and we spent the last 20 minutes sparring with the instructor; which is potentially a bit dangerous for a new student who walks in to class but he's careful not to hurt you, and I love sparring. I'm exhausted, but it's awesome and I'm going to go as often as I can.

Today (Thursday) I swam across the length of the beach and then went to send some postcards to Mum and Dad and grandparents. A guy in the post office starts talking to me, we make conversation quickly, he is a runner and a surfer too. Before, I know it, I'm walked in to a restaurant and he's trying to buy me lunch. It's a bit awkward because I say I'm hungry but then deny food (that's the truth). He says I am timid. I want to say that no, I am not timid, I am just not interested.  He hasn't said anything rude or especially creepy, but he's asked me about my age and I just get a particular vibe, so I'm going with that before I have another Francesco experience.  I'm not falling for this one again. I accept some water and make conversation and then say I need to go but will message him (I will not message him). I'm probably making myself sound like some sort of supernova or perhaps I'm not interested in anyone who approaches me, but the fact is, I'm white, I'm a novelty here and I ain't gonna give anyone kisses to be sympathetic. Oh well, it was good language practice!



Tuesday June 14

I feel like a lot has happened since I last wrote, but I think it’s that I’m starting to feel at home here.  When I first arrived, I felt guilty for not working. Work (being a Nurse) is a huge part of my life. However before I left to come to Europe, I had become burnt out. I feel that people use the term ‘burnt out’ as though it’s a ‘once in your working life time’ event, something like a mid life crisis. I don’t think that this is true in Nursing and for many other health professionals, particularly in mental health.  As always, it’s not until you have recovered from being burnt out, that you don’t often realise how much you were suffering at the time. The thing is about working in high stress jobs, is that they are addictive. Being addicted to helping people is not a bad thing, it’s good for the world. It’s a hard concept to explain. A friend of mine in the army once sent me an article talking about soldiers who came back from the war and found themselves missing the war. I told him that I understand this completely. Working in high stress jobs in a humanitarian field, within acute areas means that you see a whole different side of life. The things that you encounter are often hard to talk about at the dinner table on a multitude of levels, the work is never boring but you have to work very hard to see little things get better. I was talking with one of the team leaders in my area before I left for Europe, and she was saying that she didn’t want to get to a point where  suicidal minded people became the norm for her. It became the norm for me a long time ago, and that’s okay. People have asked me if, as a Nurse, you just learn to become desensitised. I’ve  never stopped caring. I care too much, and I love my job to bits and that’s what usually gets me burnt out.  Again, the term burnt out could give the impression that someone is broken/damaged/ unrepairable. That’s not true at all. Burn out is normal but you need to pay attention to it when it is beginning  to happen and when you are truly suffering. When I get burnt out at work, most conversations revolve around my work as it’s all I can think about, it consumes me and I feel like my primary duty in my life is to be a Nurse. I deliberately went on this trip because I needed to remind myself that I am a Nurse, I’m a good Nurse and will always be able to contribute to the lives of other positive, but that I needed time for me. I needed to open up my world again. I needed to remind myself that I’m a person made up of lots of other great things. I needed a break from traumatised people in an area that needed a lot more resources, as it was starting to make me feel traumatised.

 I have my activities set for the week, and I’m open to plans not working out and changing (the Spanish way). If you keep that attitude, you will enjoy yourself. For example, I met some tourists the other day who had booked in to go to the water park, but the bus never came, so they had to do something else.

Before I came to the Canary Islands, I had planned to rent a car. There is this German company that rents cars for super cheap ‘Autoreisen’ which rents a car for around 60 Euros per week, which is crazy cheap.  My other reason for contemplating car hire was that if my couch surfing plans went to crap, I would have a quick get away plan! I was pretty disorientated when I first arrived though and thought I would try just walking to get around and getting the bus and would see how that went.

I talked earlier in my blog about getting two buses back from the  surf beach (From Famara to Arricife, then Arricife to Puerto Del Carmen). Check out this awesome bus timetable from Famara:

My friend Yaiza talked about getting the bus as a kid, and her Mum made it to another island in the Canaries by plane quicker than she did to get home locally. :P

You know what though? I’m still not sold on getting a car. Here are my reasons why:

1.      I never catch a  bus at home, so here it’s such a novelty

2.      I get to catch the bus with locals and pretend that I am a local

3.      The bus is cheap

4.      The bus is environmentally friendly

5.      I’m not driving the bus, so therefore if the bus crashes or is stolen, it’s 100% not my responsibility

6.      I like having very few responsibilities at the moment, it’s freaking awesome

7.      I get to watch the world go by on the bus, through the window.

8.      Buses get filled with petrol that is not paid for by you

9.      Even though it takes me 3 and a half hours in total to get home from the surf beach, it means I have a chance to read a book or sit in a café with a drink and write (something that I don’t have time for/don’t make time for at home).

10.  Wow, I made it to 10 reasons. So I’m just writing this last point to make it all look complete. Oh wait, the Canarian word for bus is 'guagua' (pronounced 'wah wah'. If you get to say you are catching the wah wah, that's enough of a reason in itself to catch the bus.

Here are some photos of the beautiful flowers in the Canary Islands:

I’m so grateful for having free time. Earlier in my trip it made me feel anxious. Just a couple of days ago, I was crying on the beach because now I’ve had time to slow down and think about things. Like most people, I’ve had some difficult things happen in my life that I thought I’d been able to close the door on, and then, more realistically understand there will be different times when I still need to process these things. I spoke to my friends Jenny and Nicole about it at home. I had a good cry, they listened, they were supportive, validating and understanding and I realise that I am not crazy. On the same day, the kickboxing instructor told me that ‘I needed to listen’ that I was ‘not listening’ (I got confused with one of his instructions, which happens to me in English kickboxing classes too). I felt like leaving halfway through the lesson but I just breathed and carried on. I told him at the end of the lesson in Spanish, that ‘I am always listening but it’s hard for me because is always speaking really quickly (in Spanish) and then there is loud music next door, and that I am understanding most things but sometimes I might not know the meaning of a word’ I told Patricio that I was having a bit of an ‘off day’ and felt sad, he said ‘that’s okay, it is expected, you have been away for quite a while now and you are a long way from home’.

 Now I’m totally enjoying not working and having extra time. It took me about a month to get there! (don’t worry  Mum and Dad, I will work again).  It helps that I am in one place for a while, as I have time to get comfortable with my surroundings. Of course there will be ups and down, I’m not invincible and that’s okay. Also, travel isn’t always fun and easy all the time, that’s a misconception. Bug the personal growth that comes from having a shitty/difficult day or experience in another country builds character in ways you cannot anticipate.

I’m at a café in Famara waiting for my surf lesson, drinking  Rooibos tea. I’m super sore. Kickboxing went for nearly 2 hours yesterday. I feel like a lot of what my instructor here is telling me to do is not good technique, but I just listen and do what he says. I’m still able to keep up my strength and fitness and the classes are really fun. I usually end up super dehydrated as the gym is super hot with 2 tiny fans that are not turned on. My leg protectors that I’ve borrowed are all stretched out of shape so I need to keep readjusting them. I’ve taken them home to see if I can try and repair them. I’m totally grateful for the classes, they are an excellent opportunity. I guess I’m just trying to give an overall impression of how different things are here.

Patricio and I have been watching ‘Orange is the New Black’ with Spanish subtitles, which is a great way to improve language ability.

On the weekend I went snorkeling twice. In the morning on Saturday, I went to the beach just next to Patricio’s house and swam across the beach with the fishies, which is just incredible as it’s  so easy for me to do, the beach is at my doorstep. In the afternoon we went with Salva and Laura to another snorkeling point by some cliffs. Laura and I had a little ‘intercambio’ where she practiced here English with me and visa versa. I’ve asked if I can  film a little video of Laura and Patricio doing the ‘heads and shoulders knees and toes’  rhyme in English.

 

Snorkeling by the cliffs in Lanzarote with Patricio, Salva and Laura.

Trying to sneak in 'Pisha' , Salva and Laura's lovely little doggie that came from a refuge. Pisha is a Canarian word used to greet friends. Sweet hey?

The Spanish people really know how to relax and have fun, they are the ultimate leaders in this area. I cannot express how much food I ate over the weekend. Lots of food, all of the time. No one asks what the time is, no one talks about things they need to do, no one talks about how many calories are in the food and how it will affect their weight and there is never a wrong time to be drinking alcohol. People here acknowledge when they area very little and when money is tight but it’s not made to be a big deal, it’s very different than in Australia in this regard.

On Saturday night I got to meet Patricio’s Mum Maria, she is a little pocket rocket and was so kind in shouting us to a fancy dinner. Maria doesn’t speak much English and we talked for ages in Spanish.

Going out for dinner in Lanzarote with Patricio and his Mum Maria.

 

After dinner we went to Salva and Laura’s house for dinner. At midnight they were only starting dinner. We drank Mojitos , smoked shi sha and watched silly videos on you tube until 3am. I finally made a proper Spanish night out. Poor Patricio finds it hard when we usually have dinner at 830pm, and I tell him that this is very late dinner for me.

I talk a lot about being thrilled about speaking Spanish, sorry if that’s a little boring for my audience here. I guess it’s just that for a couple of years now I’ve been working on my Spanish and talking about just giving myself adequate time to be completely immersed in the language. I talked about  doing this  for so long that I didn’t know if I would ever make it happen. It’s happening now, and it’s magical. I just think that the fact that we are all living our lives and speaking in different tongues is beyond fascinating. Languages that are not my native tongue are music to my ears. Learning another language is hard work, it’s an endless journey but it’s totally worth it when you get to use it; you can connect with people on different levels and show respect to someone’s culture and country. If I had all the time in the world, I would love to learn all kinds of different languages.

On Sunday, Patricio and I were planning to go to another Island, Fuerteventura in the afternoon. Patricio got a call from Atasara at 11am, saying that if we were ready in the next 20 minutes, that her and her boyfriend could take us out on a boat to Playa Blanca and Fuerteventura. So we scooped up our bags and off we went on a crazy little boat for the day.

 

Having breakfast together (at 10am) before heading out on the boat.

 People were passing a joint around and laughing as the boat bounced furiously over rough water. No life jackets in site, it is the Spanish way. Out at sea it seemed to windy to go out to Fuerteventura, so the trip changed to going to only going to Playa Blanca.

Watching flying fish whizz past the boat next to us is incredible.

We ate like royalty at Playa Blanca at a local restaurant. Starters of tapas and bread (mostly sea food), a main of Paella which was black with Octopus Ink, dessert and then shots of Jagermeister. That is how it’s done folks. No one talks about feeling tired it seems, perhaps people just don’t get tired here. It’s good for me. 

There are things that work differently than Australia in less ideal ways, and it’s not just specific to Spain. Nicole and I talked about how it’s hard to know whether to say something when you see something happening that is not ideal. After the boat ride, everyone was cleaning the boat with soap that was going in to the ocean. People flick off cigarettes when they are finished in to the ocean and then left over soft drink. It blows my mind, and not in a good way. If you did that in Australia someone would probably yell at you and inform authorities. I’m just not quite sure where to start here. Well that’s not true, I mandated a recycling bin in Patricio’s house, even though he wasn’t keen on it. Patricio said ‘I’m doing other things to help the planet, just not that’. I said ‘Patricio, it’s just a different bin, and I’ll empty it, we need to look after the world now, we don’t have a choice.’ It’s just hard when you are a guest in someone else’s country and being taken care of so incredibly well. You also have to think, if someone thinks it’s okay to put soft drink, soap and cigarettes in the ocean, then do they actually know that there is something wrong there?

On Sunday night, Patricio and I have greasy and delicious food at a Columbian restaurant and crashed hard. It’s been an epic weekend.

I still intend to visit this not for profit organisation for Children when Yaiza is free to show me.

Last night I went to my intercambio meet up at Playa Honda which was great. I was the only native English speaker, so we did half an hour in English, then in Spanish for two hours non stop.  The Bar gave us food with a voluntary donation, what champions.

 Yaiza drove me home as she thought it would take me too long on the bus. I’m totally looked after here by strangers who have quickly become my friends. I’m so grateful and so happy.

I woke up in the middle of the night to hear water pouring from somewhere. I’d taken half a sleeping tablet so I groggily got up to find the hot water unit gushing out water. I woke up Patricio, he turned off the water and said ‘we’ll deal with the rest tomorrow.’ I didn’t have the heart to try and explain to Patro at 1am that flooded water around electrical goods and power points was probably sub optimal, so I spent the next half hour mopping up and went to bed.

Here’s a funny example of how things are done here. I asked Patricio why in his pool complex, there is a sign permanently placed stating ‘no swimming’. I thought perhaps someone had forgotten to remove the sign. Patricio said that if hotels have a pool they must have a lifeguard, it’s mandatory. His complex does not have a lifeguard, so theoretically, the pool is closed. People use the pool all day, every day.

 

I’ve just been for a surf and it was excellent. Hard work and intimidating but good. I caught a couple of giant green waves, so it’s been great. My shoulders are insanely sore, but I’m happy. A lot of the time, what often holds me back in surfing, is me, I get a bit scared of the huge waves. I think it’s good to be a bit scared of the ocean though, and the fact that I persist to swim out hundreds of metres to get out the back in rough conditions, is something I never dreamed of being able to do before. Hell, being able to catch a green wave once seemed impossible. I’m going to stick to lessons, you don’t actually get much teaching in the water but I think you are paying for someone to keep an eye on you in the water when conditions are wild, which they seem to be here most of the time.

I’m a bit sneaky here, at the café, waiting for the bus. I love bearing witness to how in all languages, people try to give subtle messages. This conversation was in Spanish. I will write this in English. In brackets, I will place the real meaning behind the words.  

Rasa:  ‘I have my own food’ ( lady, I know this is a big no no for as café anywhere. Please understand that I’m travelling so I don’t eat out all the time. But I’m being honest about it, and I’m  essentialy asking you if I can stay at the café, cause my bus doesn’t leave for 2 hours and there ain’t a great deal around this town) .  ‘I  will use my computer but I will also buy an ice cream from here later’ (technically you can’t ask me to leave if I buy an ice cream).

Spanish waitress:’ There is a quiet park nearby that would be a good place to use your computer and eat my food, it is nice and quiet there’. (are you are seriously going to sit here with your packed sandwich and computer?  Please leave ,you silly white lady).

 

Rasa:  (smiling and acting oblivious) ‘Yes, yes.’. ‘But I will buy an ice cream here soon’. (I call ‘check’ lady, you know you want me to buy an ice cream from you).

Spanish Waitress: Half glares/grimaces and acknowledges that it is hard for her to shoo me off at this point.

Rasa: Checkmate! Blog time!

Saturday June 24

I have not written in what feels like, a very long time. I have been mighty busy. I can't believe that I am nearly at the end of my time in the Canary Islands. Time has flown by. Already I have been traveling for nearly 2 months. In some ways, it feels like I have been away a long time; I have experienced so much  and work and every day life feels very distant now. It took at least a month for me not to be feeling homesick so much, and to adjust to a totally different lifestyle.

Homesickness is normal, and it's not a bad thing, as it is a sign that you have people and things at home that you care a lot about. The tricky part is not to wish away time because you are homesick. I tend to get homesick when I am actually sick or exhausted, when things are not going to plan or when someone is rude/unhelpful or upsetting.For example, the guy who cornered me in to a restaurant (the guy from the post office) kept on 'turning up'. Each time I came back from a swim, he was there. I'm not sure if his work is near where I live, which would be a crappy coincidence, but I find it hard to believe that I also just 'bumped' in to him when I was taking the bins out in an alley way. I've learned just not to really look at men in the eyes here. I'm not making it out like all the men here are predators, because they are not, I'm just tired of feeling hassled. I want to be able to talk to men without people thinking that a date/kiss/shag will come out of it. At least when I go to Switzerland I will no longer be a novelty, as Switzerland has white people who are especially good looking.

Being in the Canary Islands has really taught me to relax. It's been hard to feel lonely here when the custom is to be kissed on both cheeks. When I walk in to  the centre where I voluntree, I receive about 50 kisses and hugs in 5 minutes, it's wonderful.

Here's a little summary of some of the things at Lanzarote that have been keeping me busy.


Teguisa:

Yaiza, the lovely woman who I talked about earlier, who I met in the language exchange group has become  my Spanish Mama. Yaiza has driven the opposite direction to come and pick me up and take me to my volunteering job at El Cribo each day. On the way back from my initial interview at El Cribo, Yaiza drove us to another part of Lanzarote to an area called 'Teguisa. Nice view at Teguisa hey?

Yaiza has an old car that resembles my old 'Babychino' a bit, the wheel alignment is off and it rocks you to sleep on the big journey.

Here is a lovely photo of Yaiza and her son 'Aray' (another cool Canarian name). I've been so lucky to e have met all of Yaiza's family, including her parents who practically live next door. Yaiza's parents gave me some potatoes from their garden. they are all such lovely people.

Camping at La Graciosa:

 Patricio and I drove to pick up his friends Catalina and Stefanie (who live in Spain)  and then met with Salva and Laura to go camping at La Graciosa.  La Gracioa is spectacularly beautiful. Remember when I talked about the rugged and wild scenery of Shetland being how I always imagined Scotland to be? La Graciosa is how I always imagined the Canary Islands to be. It's nearly a desolate island. It's so small that it is not counted in the main islands of Canary Islands. The Water is such an intense blue that it looks artificial. Paloma birds from Africa hang around your tend, it's intensely hot and you snorkel  a few centimeters away from exotic fish. Geographically, we are actually in Africa while in the Canary Islands.

I am such a white girl with this group. Look at them! I might be the only person in Lanzarote who wears a hat. The rest of the group give me crap when I deny wine for water. The Spanish lifestyle has forced me to chill the fuck out. We barely sleep, drink and eat all through the day, snorkel, nap, chat, swim.

                                                   

Laura y Picha

I had to place this photo here, as I love Laura and Picha.

Snorkeling at Quiquere, pronounced 'Kickere':

 I've been able to snorkel my way around Lanzarote, and it's ace. I sit my rock pools watching bottom feeder fish, that I had only ever seen before in fish tanks. There is a cornucopia of various sizes of hermit crabs  dancing around the rock pools and I just stare at them. Time doesn't mean anything. We have no where we have to be and nothing to worry about at this moment in time. I confess to Catalina and Stefanie today that I actually felt really nervous about going away with them, ''Why?' they ask.  I remind them that I am a stranger living with their friend from another country and in addition, I can feel a bit shy with my Spanish, worried about making mistakes. ' They have been nothing but warm, welcoming and kind to me. We  all love talking together about our different cultures and exchanging languages. The girls also it hard to understand that we don't have dinner at 10pm in Australia and that we don't kiss everyone twice upon first meeting them. 'Don't you get hungry again at 10pm then?' They ask. I tell them that we tend to go to bed at 10pm...

Volunteering at El Cribo:

As you may frecall, when I first met Yaiza at the languag exchange group, I told her that I was hoping to do some volunteering ut had trouble finding anyone who wanted my help!

I told Yasiza that I was looking in to 'SARA" the animal shelter. Yaiza said that the people there are weird and I wouldn't be using any Spanish there. Yaiza said she would take to a Centre the next day for an interview at a place where I would be needed and only Spanish, more or less would be used.

Yaiza took me to 'El Cribo': http://elcribo.org/

El Cribo is a centre that runs different programs in the day for people with mental illness. Here is the ethos of El Cribo:

In El Cribo different occupational workshops are developed where the acquisition or recovery of the skills that allow the patient to develop the highest degree of autonomy possible, with adequate conditions of quality of life, normalization and integration within their social and family context are developed.El Cribo aims to promote the social integration of users through the development of actions that avoid isolation and social marginalization.


The night before, Yaiza said 'do you really want to spend your free time volunteering there.?' 'For example, we could just chill on the beach and eat chips and drink coke instead'? I tole Yaiza that I definitely wanted to volunteer. A lot of people here found that surprising. Even at the interview at El Cribo, when they realised that I had no course requirement for my Nursing to do this volunteering (I have completed all of my study for Nursing), and when they established that I would not be getting paid and that that was totally fine, they were like umm, great, you can start on Monday! The interview was in Spanish and the director Vanessa went through a huge book with me outlining the program. I was impressed but overwhelmed.

The night before starting, I felt sick, I didn't know what I was in for, I was afraid of failing and I was really thinking about backing out. Yaiza drove me in and reassured me, so did Vanessa

I'm so happy that I went ahead with my volunteering. I have loved it so much that I have gone every day since. The ethos of El Cribo is a testimony to what they deliver.  They way that the programs run at El Cribo, and the effectiveness of them, is everything that I tried to do in my old program where I was the consultant Nurse, but I just couldn't get things to change that way; too much red tape and not enough motivation or similar views from many of the people that I worked with.


El Cribo doesn't just have one activity for people to pick from, people can pick from many different activities that run co currently every day. Just to name a few of the activities running:

-Gardening
-Floristery
-Graphic Design
-Conversation group about sexuality and relationships
-Meal planning and healthy eating group
-Music group
-Sport group
-Debating group
-Conversation group about budgeting and cleaning
-Numerous excursions that include cycling, to the beach & the people of El Cribo participate in Carnivale with their music group
-Psycho education groups

Many of the staff have worked there for 10+ years and still maintain the same enthusiasm. All of the people who attend the groups have a good rapport with the staff and continuously report how helpful El Cribo has been for them; to have meaning in there life, to learn new skills, to have routine, motivation, to receive support and to feel like a part of a family. Many people who attend El Cribo don't have family outside of El Cribo, which is so sad, as they are really sweet and beautiful people. The people of El Cribo talk about how it's the day program activities that really help them to stay well and happy, more so than medication and seeing the Doctor. This is not to dismiss the value of Health professionals and medicine, but these kinds of activities are equally as important in recovery.

On my first day, all of the clients had learned my name and checked that I would be coming back in the next day.

My favourite group has been the garden group. El Cribo owns a greenhouse where all of the plants and produce are solely from the work of the people of El Cribo. I have helped harvest what and prepare organic tea that will be sold in Spain and  the money will come back to El Cribo. These skills have been taught to me by the clients of El Cribo, who are proficient in these skills. I would have loved to have some photos of the people of El Cribo but I signed a confidentiality agreement which prevents me from being able to do that ( which is professional and appropriate).

One of many cabinets at El cribo shows awards for the program as well as participation in many community events.

Housekeeping rules;every house hold needs them.

I helped run a sporting group at the gym (mostly men attended this). When you pick up a card from a deck of cards (see words on the left) this equates in a particular exercise. when you finish your exercise, you line up fro a new card. For example, if you pick up the card with the picture of gold (oros) you have to do s30 sit ups.

The graphic design group is impressive. These are the Christmas cards that were made last year by the people of El Cribo.

In the Graphic Design class I was in, the people of El Cribo were learning detailed orientation and map making.

I've felt so honored to be able to be a part of El Cribo, it's such a wonderful place.

 My Spanish has strengthened dramatically. I'm glad that I have a month on the Camino De Santiago trail so I can continue speaking Spanish. I feel a little sad because I know if I continued living here I would become fluent soon enough.  There just aren't really opportunities to practice other languages in Australia.One of the English guys working at El Cribo has worked in Lanzarote for 5 years and speaks barely any Spanish, languages are hard and some people catch on way quicker (I am not one of those people, but I find this hard to understand. However, he is certainly not the sharpest tool in the garden shed.

I has my last day of surfing last Friday and finally got a day of amazing conditions. The water was glassy, no wind and I got to catch green perfect green waves for hours, turning on most of them too! One of the surf instructors from South America told me that the beach that I first went surfing on in Gran Canaria is 'the worst beach to surf on' and that she has difficulty catching waves. I've also found out that now is the 'off season' for surf as there is tons of wind, so I'm super pleased for what I've been able to do. If it's true that if you can surf in the Canary Islands, then you can surf anywhere in the world, well I'm taking that. I had a nice long chat with an Italian guy working at the surf shop. He has such a confused accent as he is fluent in many different languages and has lived in New Zealand and South Africa. He had a surf accident this year where his board hit him in the head, he ended up concussed and is still recovering a month later. We share our gory stories and scars. Travel is great, because you can meet a lot of free spirits. At home, it sometimes feels like you are pitied because you are single. When you travel and say that you quit your job to travel solo, everyone (including partnered people with kids) are all like 'right on'!

The Italian guy and I talked about our time in Bali. We talked about how something weird is bound to happen to you in Bali. I talked about my surf accident the Italian guy talked about how his girlfriend at the time insisted that they go in to the monkey forest in Ubud, even though he didn’t want to go. His girlfriend accidentally left a banana in his bag, so a money bit him. He then went to the doctor to see if he was okay. The doctor said, well you won’t know for about 2 months, and then maybe you will be okay or maybe you will die. So he decided to get the rabies medicine and pay most of his spending money upfront for it. His girlfriend later revealed to him that she had ‘an experience with another woman’ in Bali. He said that this didn’t actually upset him that much, but it was just weird. He said that next time he goes to South East Asia, he will sit in an air conditioned room and play it totally safe. I love Bali, but I can’t say after my 45 stitches that I’d rush back to go surfing there either…

 


I had one of the greatest mornings of snorkeling this morning too, with huge schools of fish so very close to me all the time. I think the Canary Islands is giving me a warm hug  a bon voyage messages through the ocean.

 I have a wonderful little friendship circle here.

The last evening I had in Canary Islands was everything that I wanted it to be. I sat with Yaiza and her family and friend on the beach, chatting for hours about life and the world, eating and swimming. Yaiza and Patricio finally got to meet as we all went out for dinner. It felt as if I was introducing my two  lovers for the first time! but I spent so much time with both of them, it’;s as though I am married to Patricio as I live with him and Yaiza is my girlfriend, except either of them are my lovers.

I have been able to contribute to the community and I move around the island and have gotten to know Lanzarote  like more of a local. I am sad to be going but more adventures await.

Muchas gracias Patricio, Salva, Laura, Yaiza, Stefanie,  Atasara, Catlina y la gente de El Cribo para una gran experienca. Fue increible.




Wednesday June 28


I'm spending the day in Barcelona for the day and am heading to Zurich tonight. I've been to Barcelona two years ago, it's such a cool place. I had a great little jog around the city today. My airbnb host Eva is lovely, she smokes inside which seems  to be a bit of a trend in Europe. But the room cost me $20 for the night, Eva is super sweet and there is a little cattie here and I have a bed! I think I will head to the markets for lunch. :)

Madrid for me felt rough a bit too rough and dark. Barcelona is still a big city, but I think the vibe is better here.

Rasa's dinner choice. Way better than airport food for sure!

Somehow I managed to miss the 'erotic museum' last time I was in Barcelona. Can you see the Spanish Marylin Monroe in the window?

Rasa picks the especial for lunch.

As it turns out, a full day goes by pretty quickly. Instead of trying to dart around everywhere (something that I try to avoid doing when travelling now) I spent my time at the markets. It was the ultimate foodie tour. I ate delicious fresh fruit and a crepe filled with jamon cerron, various cheeses and vegetable and bought a Middle Eastern vegetarian dish for dinner on the plane to Zurich. Time well spent. Gracias Barcelona.

That's about it for now. I will write more in due course. Next stop, Switzerland.

Hasta pronto amigos,
Rasa