Tuesday 19 September 2017

Colourful experiences in Paris and followed by the emotional journey back to Australia.

I'm sitting at Paris airport, waiting for the plane to start the big journey back home to Australia.


Paris certainly has been a colourful experience. 2 days ago, I ended IP being on planes and at airports from 9am to midnight.  In Madrid, the plane to Paris ended up getting delayed for about 5 hours. I love Spanish culture, but many of the Spanish are also known for not managing this kind of stuff very well.

The flight to Madrid, was an excellent example of this.

After getting sent to another terminal with no food nearby, about an hour later, one of the cabin crew arrived. Not once during a 5 hour delay, were we given an announcement about what was happening. From what I heard from other passengers, there was a strike at Paris airport. Also, another plane going to Paris, had a problem with the engine, so we were waiting for staff to place two planes of people on to one big plane.

All they had to do, was tell everyone what was happening, then get people to go in single file. Instead, it became a riot. Some French people were screaming, saying that they needed to sort this mess out, then they went on the plane in frustration, ignoring the cabin crew. This delayed us even more, because then the police were called to get those passengers off the plane again.

I'm glad I had some funny Spanish passengers to joke with..

In the mean time, my couchsurfing host for Paris (I will call him Pepe, like Pepé Le Pew from Looney Toons), was starting to worry me.

I already had some reservations. For example, On Pepe's profile, you can see that he only hosts females. Our communication until now had been fine though, friendly but with boundaries.

Now Pepe was starting to send me messages like 'we will have a great time together' then pictures of roses and the little emogee with the love hearts in his eyes. I double checked Pepe's profile. I seemed to had missed that he lives in a studio apartment. But hr had good reviews and the girls confirmed that they had their own bed/ couch to sleep on.

I arrived in Paris close to midnight and exhausted. I have entered the equally cool and frustrating world of people not knowing/ refusing to speak English. David, a nice German boy, approached me  on the airport bus as he could see I was struggling to communicate with the driver. David really helped me out in terms of directions and even told me how to get a refund on my flight! David was empathetic and nice to talk to after my flights, as he travels all the time for work. David told me that Pepe lives in a rich area of town.

I made it to Pepe's station in Paris and he came to pick me up on his scooter. Its great to see so many scooters in Paris!

This is my first time riding as a pillion with a 12kg backpack on. Adam darts around through traffic, but so does everyone else. Cyclists, like Spain, don't wear helmets as it is not compulsory.
On the way up to Pepe's apartment, I see how traditionally French the lift and stairway is. Just beautiful.




I had to try not to gasp/ laugh when I arrived at  Pepe's place. Apparently Pepe is 'in between' rentals, and this is not usually where he hosts people.This is the smallest place I have seen in my life. You open the door and  there is a bunk bed directly in front of you. There is about 2 feet worth of distance between a stove and sink on the left, next to a tiny ensuite that has no door.

I bet this place still costs a mint. Check out some of the rental prices here.

I am informed by Pepe, that the doorless toilet plumbing can only manage wees. If you want to do a poo, you need to go down a dark corridor with a key to use another toilet. I opt to always use this toilet, so that Pepe isn't watching me wee on the top bunk.

Pepe feeds me some pasta and wine and asked if I want to smoke shisha, and I say okay. Pepe keeps trying to put his arm around me, I keep moving away and it all feels dreadfully uncomfortable.

However, the next day, Pepe goes to work and I have the day to myself. Hooray! 

David told me before to avoid using public transport where possible, as Paris is the most densely populated area in Europe and the transport is so confusing.

I decide to walk to the famous art museum 'The Louvre'. Everyone along the way tells me 'it's very far', but I enjoy the one hour walk through Paris. Like London, people here seem to either ignore you when you ask for help, or are completely obliging and friendly. Pepe says that people here don't really speak English, as they don't know the language, but I think that people don't bother trying more of the time. I don't mind, I like the sound of French and I appreciate the arrogance actually.








I have an overpriced but delicious French crepe for lunch (with salmon, cheese and lemon) on my walk and text Pepe while I am in line for the Lourve. I'm feeling a bit anxious as I have one more night with Pepe and we are not on the same wave length. I msg Pepe and say 'just so you know Pepe, I am not on couchsurfing for romance or a relationship, but I do appreciate your friendship and for you looking after me in Paris'. Pepe does not respond to that particular message but we arrange to meet later for a scooter tour of Paris at night and dinner.

The Louvre is crowded but beautiful. 



Like all the other tourists who know too little about art, I seek out the Mona Lisa. But of course, I appreciate all the less famous artworks. I know very little about them, I know little about history too. But I know that meaningful art is what evokes an emotional response from you. On that note, here are some of my favourite artworks from the Louvre.
This is about how close I'll be able to get to this little lady, with all the tourists.







I sit and watch the fountain drinking an overpriced hot chocolate while waiting for Pepe.

Although I don't like being a pillion on a scooter that much (I prefer being the driver on my Vespa)! The ride is very cool. Paris is pretty at night, seeing the restaurants and Moulin Rouge all lit up. Its an adventure and it's fun. I know that Pepe enjoys having a girl on the back of his scooter, but I also enjoy the free tour.

We have dinner at a beautiful and very French restaurant. I treat Pepe to dinner, as I like to do things for all my couchsurfing hosts to say thank you, without getting in to bed with them. We eat snails and duck with potatoes as well as hand crafted creme broulee and wine. I don't care about the price now, as I am at the end of my trip. The waiter is the perfect French man, he is passionate and funny. The food is amazing and the ambience is perfect. I still, will not sleep with you Pepe.

Pepe suggest that we have shisha again at his house but I say I will go to bed as I need to be up early in the morning for my flight.

Pepe gives me instructions to get to the airport and says 'it's easy.'

I gave myself an extra hour on top of what Pepe suggested. I'm so happy I did, as it was crazy complicated to get to the airport. Paris is crazy. I asked a  guy on one of the trains if I was on the right train, he ignored me and walked away. I was on the wrong train. When I got on the right train after the metro, we then had to get in two other trains after a delay and an announcement in French. I'm grateful that a lovely French lady, saw me with my backpack and told me what to do. This lady is a psychologist and is on her way to her first day as a Psychologist at the airport, working with about 100 migrants who are living there. Apparently the airport won't give them food or blankets as a way of deterring them.

I make it to the airport with no less, no more than 2 hours to check in, just enough. I see one of the migrants with a trolley with bags and a sign, yelling things out that I cannot understand.

Another guy at the airport, who zi assume is also on his way to a flight, approaches me and asks if I speak English (this guy, I think is middle eastern). I say that I do, and be says something about food. He repeats what he first tried to say 'your feet, can I kiss your feet'. 'No thank you', I reply, stunned. 'Please'  he says (as I am walking away) 'please let me kiss your lovely feet'.

Well Paris, it sure has been interesting!

I'm on my flight home, and because I am going back, I feel that I am ready.

There are many things I look forward to, seeing friends and family, using a washing machine, having some routine and not sleeping in a dormitory.

But of course, I will miss sleeping in a dormitory and having no routine.

One of the most important things I think with travel, is to not just treat it as an 'escape'. I think you need to find ways to incorporate your experiences traveling in to your life. Find ways to be open, spontaneous, adventurous, curious, kind adaptable and take risks.

Then if things  stagnate, try and re evaluate how you might need to re evaluate how you are approaching things at home. If all that fails, you can always hop on a plane to another country again!

Thank you to the Middle East, to Europe for every experience and opportunity you have given me. all my wonderful family and friends in all the countries I have visited, you mean 'the world' to me. :)

As always, never goodbye, just see you soon.

Thank you for coming with me on my travels here, through reading my blog . Until the next adventure.

Love Rasa

Saturday 19 August 2017

El Camino De Santiago. Hiking and cycling a pilgrimage; 800 kilometres from France to Spain.

Saturday August 19

I was informed about the terrible attack in Barcelona. These attacks have all happened in the same places I have been this trip, it's so sad. All I can do is pray.


Yesterday I left on my treacherous journey from Czech to Bordeaux. I had two flights spread across a whole day (starting at Prague airport at 9am then arriving eventually in Bordeaux, France at 9pm).

 At the airport in Prague, I checked in super early and the woman at the airport counter was so friendly and asked me if I was traveling alone. In my past experiences, this question has lead to me getting an awesome seat on the plane. However, as Sonja said, laughing in a 'whats app' msg after I told her my problems with my bus trip to Vilnius 'I think your magic powers have run out Rasa!'

 I shouldn't complain, it wasn't all that bad. The flight to Madrid from Prague was just crazy hot. At Madrid, the woman next two me at the airport either was a chronic smoker or had a bad chest infection and wouldn't stop coughing. I couldn't even pretend to be polite or empathetic, I just moved away from her. Well on the next flight, I got placed on the back of the flight, right next to the toilet with the coughing Spanish woman on my left. Then she decided to play a video on her phone without earphones loudly. I said to her in Spanish 'please, no' with a pleading look on my face. She then decided to slightly turn down the volume of the video and play it close to her ear, as if this made jack of a difference.

I was so happy to arrive in Bordeaux, and my beautiful airbnb. This may well be the nicest accommodation that I will see for weeks as today I make my way by train to Bayonne, then St Jean Pied De Port to Start El Camino De Santiago.


My French bed and breakfast this morning.

The view from my window.

My morning run in Bordeaux=bliss:





















El Camino De Santiago is is the name of any of the pilgrimage routes, known as pilgrim ways, to the shrine of the apostle, St James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago De Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the saint are buried. Many follow its routes as a form of spiritual path or retreat for their spiritual growth. It is also popular with hiking and cycling enthusiasts as well as organised tours. The route can follow many different paths but the Camino De Frances is the most popular. The route is about 777km long, it starts in France and ends in Santiago.

People are known to lose and find themselves on this pilgrimage in one way or another, and will experience some sort of miracle. To be considered to have considered to have completed your pilgrimage, you need to complete the last 100km by foot or the last 200km by bicycle. 

Like a lot of people, I saw the movie 'The Way', about El Camino De Santiago and was so enchanted that I decided to do this too. You don't need to be a Catholic to do this trail. But it is a spiritual journey. What I have learned in nursing, is that everyone is spiritual. I was raised in a Catholic family, and I don't identify myself as a catholic, but I believe in Christian values, as well as the values of many other religions, I meditate and I pray. I don't go to church, except for on Easter and Christmas with my family, so whatever that makes me, who cares. I don't need to be placed in a category, no one does.

I initially wanted to do this pilgrimage by foot. My fitness is good but my knees are not. A few people seem to think that taking this journey by bicycle, means you are 'cheating'. I think that is silly. This is really, my only way to be able to do this, as this is what my body permits me to do. The only reason that I don't do ultra marathons anymore, is because at 28, I have arthritic knees. No one can tell me that physically, I am lazy!


Candido, from couchsurfing, showing me the bicycle he is kindly willing to lend me for El Camino.


Besides, the pilgrimage is about doing it YOUR WAY. It's about your spiritual experience. No one, including God really cares how many kilometers you clock up.

I've made a pack list, whether or not it's what I'll end up needing, it is what I am going with!

Here is my pack list (rough and raw with all my editing to date):


Camino De Santiago pack list-28 days in total

-2 x quick dry shirts
-2 x bike shorts-consider buying one pair of leggings instead of second pair of bike shorts
-3 x socks-need to buy  special padded hiking ones, throw out old sox.
-Hat
-4 x undies
-GPs watch and charger
-Note book and pen for journaling-to buy
-Money, Drivers license, student card and bank card
-Australia pins-all leftovers
-Phone
-Phone charger
-Universal adaptor
-Book to read? Light one only or read online
-Sleeping bag liner-buy online? Yes a silk one -bought
-Buy 30L backpack buy online or from camping shop? Type?
-‘Shell’ waterproof windproof jacket
-Wool jacket or longsleeve top? Buy online or from camping shop?
-Runners
-Thongs-need to buy some cheap lightweight ones
-2 x sports bras-need to buy one and sent to thomas
-PJ’s? - wear extra pair of clothes or buy a small nighty?
-’Buff’ for my neck-buy online or from camping shop-bought just need to confirm it is getting sent to Andrea
-Shammy towel - SMALL ONLY-need to buy
-Plastic bag for grotties
-Medication: Collitis meds, pain killers, sleeping drugs and antibiotics-buy pain killers with ibuprofen and panadol if possible
-2 x pairs of ear plugs
-’Scrubba’ for washing-buy online scrubba and clothes line bought
- Toothbrush and small paste and floss-need to buy small toothbrush
-Soap -or shampoo, need to buy small bottle if I don’t have one
-Headtorch
-Compeed-hardcore bandaids buy online yes large padded ones or blister tape-bought
-Zinc and sunscreen -need to restock?
-sunglasses
-Lip balm-buy if I don’t have much
-Quick seal bags
-Eye mask
-Bobby pins, comb and elastics
-Buy one Litre water bottle? Mine currently is about 600ml
-Water sanitizing pills-buy online or from camping shop? yes-bought
-Buy guide map book at Pilgrim office yes if light
-Pilgrim passport-to collect in St Jean
-Buy all use’spork’ online or from camping store? spork utility thing bought online
-Toilet paper -  to buy, Mum reccomends packing a few sheets each day
-Bed bug spray-buy online or from camping shop? -bought
-Pack a small rock to take the whole way-tradition no
-buy  clothes washing detergent in small container
-Waterproofing spray for shoes
-30L backpack
-Woolen lightweight hoodie


-Need to pick up Pilgrim passport, purchase/hire bike. Sell bike at the end? Need helmet and arrange for big luggage to be picked up day before I leave-careful care with laptop.

I ordered some bed bug spray that never arrived. Hopefully I can find some on the way. I think some of the places you stay can be pretty rough. Anyone who knows my experience with insects from other countries, is that I get bitten through tropical strength repellent and I tend to look like I have the plague, even when I am on steroids, antibiotics and antihistamines. Oh well, I'll survive!


   I Looked  in to hiring a bike, and I was quoted about $500 AUD for three weeks. That's nuts!    My awesome mint green bike with basket that whizzes around the lake cost me less than that, and I own it! But do you know Jane, who I met on couchsurfing who took me hiking in Switzerland? Jane has put me in touch with a Spanish guy 'Candido' who she also took hiking. I am going to hike 27km from St Jean to Roncesvalles on Sunday to meet Candido who will lend me his bike for my journey! If this actually eventuates and I make it to the end, I will already have two miracles. Human kindness is amazing.

Here is an itinerary of the bicycle stages of El Camino De Santiago. I might not be able to do the whole thing, but I'll do what I can.



Cycling stages
Camino de Santiago en bicicletaCamino de Santiago en bicicleta

The Camino de Santiago by bike

At least one in ten pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago who reach Plaza del Obradoiro do so on two wheels. Each of these bicigrinos (cycling pilgrims), as they are popularly known, presents different characteristics depending on their age, strength, weight, type of bike, etc … For this reason, it is extremely difficult to categorize the journeys.
Choosing doing the Camino de Santiago by bike is very interesting alternative for those pilgrims who want to travel long distances, but not want to give up everything imbibe the infinite attractions that hides the pilgrimage route. The bike also gives us more possibilities for luggage if walking pilgrimage thanks to the possibility of installing saddle bags and baskets in which distribute weight normally get along in the backpack.
However if we choose to make the Santiago Way bike and become a bicigrino, we need to know some basics of maintenance, in addition to not forget certain multipurpose tools, flanges, pump or patches to fix flat tires, something that is essential for get ahead. We should not think on the other hand to go on a bicycle we save all the effort to make the Camino de Santiago walk, as it remains intense physical exercise, having to face significant increases in certain fearsome stages. Therefore we must always keep an eye on our physical and mental state, hidratándonos, heating and stretching after each stage to avoid injury.
The pilgrim who choose to do the Camino de Santiago by bike is not free from the hazardous weather, so that essential elements such as rain coat must be added other specific of this transport, as covers for the mud. On the other hand, one of the great advantages you will find the pilgrim on the bike is its adaptability and can even install trailers or transport chairs for children if the situation requires.
Finally, if you've already decided before leaving home you must plan how you want to transport your bike, as there are multiple options, depending on whether you want to travel to the starting point of the Camino de Santiago by bike or prefer to send and collect it there , making you really more comfortable ride. If you choose this second option, you should know that there are a variety of services with very competitive prices that keep you from headaches, such as running out of room and deniegen you to upload your bike on the train or bus.
Camino Santiago en biciCamino Santiago en bici

The stages of the Camino de Santiago by bike

In Vive el Camino we present you a structure divided into 15 stages starting in Saint Jean Pied de Port and finishing in Santiago. The average kilometres for each day are just over 52, although this figure may be misleading. Each day has been rated according to its difficulty and related distance, for this reason, the first stage consists of only 26 km. It is the shortest of all, but the steep Pyrenean slopes faced by the pilgrims will leave many squirming over the handlebars, while others may even have to dismount to reach Roncesvalles. By contrast, the stage linking Burgos to CarriĂłn de los Condes consists of 86 kilometres. During which there are hardly any slopes, so riders can pedal away without a problem.
Similarly, and although many pilgrims choose to remain on asphalt, this guide is intended for those following the Original Way, while it is true that sometimes, due to unavoidable difficulties, exceptions are made and directions are provided to continue on the road.
Of course, this section is intended to serve as a reference. It can be changed at the whim of each cyclist. Those who arrive at the finish with strength can continue some kilometres and, those who falter before arriving should not feel forced to finish. They are likely to find a hostel or alternative accommodation before the end of the scheduled journey.


I have to say goodbye to my laptop until the end of the trail, as I'll be sending my big backpack with computer to Santiago to meet me on the other side. My pack for the trail is super small, with bare essentials. I'll miss having a laptop! My poor laptop is starting to look well traveled, forming little red lines across the screen. I'm so proud of the efforts of my computer, blogging for months on end and even having written nearly 50 types pages of nursing stories! So I will be keeping a paper diary. I'll see if I can upload by diary entries as I go. It might be the case that I need to upload everything at the end of the trail, along with photos. If you don't hear from me in the meantime, know that I am alive and well. Time to switch the Spanish brain back on.

So, my handwritten journal notes are absolutely not legible, no surprises there.So until day 8 when I arrive in Sahagun, there are no journal notes, just photos. However, I feel that the photos tell a story in themselves.

 Monday August 21

Day 1.Saint Jean Pied de Port, Roncesvalles (26 kilometres)

Minimum height: 233 meters
Maximum height: 1480 meters
Difficulty: Very high
It is possible to cover this stage by passing through the town of Valcarlos. The journey is a little longer, but easier and without having to leave the tarmac. Either way, and although you will end up suffering, with good weather conditions the route through the Cize ports is recommended.



 St Jean Pied De Port, France and though the Pyranees:



Walking to the Cathedral to pick up my pilgrim passport and start my journey.

 












And off we go.



 I even got to attend church in the middle of the Pyranees with many others who have driven in from who knows where.



Approaching Ronscesvalles

 

 Tuesday August 22

Day 2. Roncesvalles, Pamplona (48 km)

Minimum height: 962 meters
Maximum height: 449 meters
Difficulty: Very high
Despite descending more than 500 meters from beginning to end, the first stretch of this stage is tremendously complicated. It is the perfect example of a leg breaking stretch, in which steep slopes are interspersed with hell like climbs and with hardly any areas on flat terrain. In some parts the bad ground makes the task even more difficult, but nothing that a mountain bike can’t handle. The descent from the peak of Arre to Zubiri should be done on the road because it is extremely dangerous. The second half is considerably easier. For lovers of cycling, the route passes through Villava, the birthplace of Miguel Indurain, five-time champion of the Tour de France.







Candido, messaging me on 'whats app' when he is out the front of the albergue to give me a bike, so I know who he is!
Candido, the stranger who decided to lend me a bike. What a guy. I hope Candido and his family will visit me in Australia.

Sneeking in Candido as a peregrino. Left side of table, Bjorn from Norway, Babs from Germany and Rasa. Right side of table from front, Colm from Ireland, and Candido at the back. The guest of honour!







Wednesday August 23

Day 3. Pamplona- Estella (44 kilometres)

Minimum height: 397 meters
Maximum height: 780 meters
Difficulty: High
This stage is most notable for the ascent and descent of Alto del Perdon. The difficulty involved should be taken without haste. The heavy winds and loose ground complicate the climb. The descent is very dangerous and, it is therefore recommendable to use the road. The rest of the stage does not present great difficulties, although the arrival to Estella is somewhat complicated.

Babs on her way! I am leaving Babs my English copy of 'I'm off then' the book about the Camino by the German comedian in Leon for when Babs arrives there. Babs wants to practice her English and wants something to 'remember me by'.
I cannot believe that this is my rest area for hot  a hot choccie and a sandwich. I am so blessed!




The cycle in to Estella is one of the most beautiful parts of the Camino. You cycle through a lot of dry farmland, known as 'the golden mile'.







Thursday August 24

Day 4. Estella –Logroño (49 kilometres)

Minimum height: 420 meters
Maximum height: 590 meters
Difficulty: High
A very comfortable stage with the exception of the ascent to Villamayor de MonjardĂ­n, short but demanding, and the section between Torres del Rio and Viana is sheer torture filled with steep descents which require good brakes. Many cyclists end up continuing this stretch on the road.





It's always  a funny feeling finding a little cafe in the middle of nowhere.

Me, the bike and all my belongings ended up as dusty as these fields at the end of the day.


  Friday August 25

Day 5. Logroño -Santo Domingo (48 kilometres)

Minimum height: 390 meters
Maximum height: 715 meters
Difficulty: Medium
This stage runs through the valley of Ebro, an area where high winds are common. The ascent to the peak of San Anton is the most notable difficulty.








The scallop shell also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago. The shell was the right size for gathering water to drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl. You will see most pilgrims walking with a shell on their backpack. Here is mine. I'm a little reluctant to take it off.



Magic juice.

Saturday August 26

Day 6. Santo Domingo de La Calzada- Burgos (75 kilometres)

Minimum height: 640 meters
Maximum height: 1165 meters
Difficulty: Very high
One of the most complicated stages due its length and the difficulty of the second half. The ride to Montes de Oca is comfortable, although, riders will face long slopes. Before arriving to Burgos they have to cross the Sierra of Atapuerca, which is complicated by irregular and stony terrain. The access to Burgos is through an industrial estate, which is dangerous because of heavy traffic.





People have made little sunflower faces along the way.

Best soccer field, ever.

Trust the Australian, Cam to photo bomb one of the most beautiful churches in Spain, in Burgos.

Stop at every tap you can to drink. You don't know when you will see one again!


Isn't this such a beautiful decoration of a village house? The perfect demonstration of pride of Spain and the Camino.



Sunday August 27

Day 7. Burgos, CarriĂłn de los Condes (86 kilometres)

Minimum height: 640 meters
Maximum height: 1165 meters
Difficulty: Medium-High
The longest stage but dominated by flat terrain. The only port, Mostelares is situated half way through the stage, just at the exit of Castrojeriz. It is worth taking things easy as the last part of the journey involves some demanding slopes. Now in Tierra de Campos, before arriving to FrĂłmista, a pretty walk along the banks of the English Channel.














With all of the lovely people I meet on the Camino, we exchange details and then write to each other with our stories, photos and experiences. Here is Bjorn waiting for the train, wishes us a good trip as he makes his way back home. Everyone has different journeys on the Camino. Some people only have a week off work, others have been hiking for 1000 kilometers or more.




 Monday August 28


Day 8. Carrion de los Condes -SahagĂşn (39 kilometres)

Minimum height: 830 meters
Maximum height: 910 meters
Difficulty: Very Low

This transitional stage could be described as practically a rest. Pilgrims will have the opportunity to spend the day in Sahagun. Very short in distance and without any difficulties to face, the layout of the journey looks as flat as a plate. It is worth taking the opportunity to relax and recharge your batteries before confronting the second week of the  Camino de Santiago.


I have decided that aside from the distances  and the 'to and from' destinations listed, the cycling guide for El Camino means nothing!

The ride today was complicated by rain that ended up becoming a storm.

At first when the rain started, I thought 'what an adventure'! It was nice to have a break from the heat and enjoy the smells of the wet farmland and earth that comes with the rain. Then I cried a bit, not out of sadness, just lots of different emotions. Rain tends to make me reflective and emotional. People say that everyone cries at least one on the Camino. I'll believe it.




Update from Babs; finding the wine fountain. That a girl!


I'm a little tired of the poorly marked path, but I'm also now getting used to it! I expect to get lost once a day, realise that I am lost and then make my way back to the path.

There are meant to be little pictures of a yellow seashell to help you to know you are on the Camino. Sometimes there are big or little shells in the concrete path two! At times, instead of the shells,  there are yellow arrows, which are less helpful, especially when at times, there are two sets of arrows that point in different directions.

I was reading a story about an American woman who went down the wrong route, when a guy placed arrows that led to his farm where he murdered her. Deaths don't happen often on the Camino, but they do occur from time to time.

The weather was turning crappy and I barely saw anyone one the trail, hardly any walkers or cyclists.

Today I found another set of two identical arrows, and followed the arrows which had pilgrims walking down it.  I was starting to get cold so I wanted to keep on going on my trail with as few stops as possible. A few kilometers down the road, there were no shells, no road signs to Sahagun, and well, just nothing at all really. 

Then it started to storm, hard. I pulled in at the next town I could see. Most of the little towns will have a little cafe, and I needed to dry off and get something to eat.

When the towns are really small and in the middle of nowhere, sometimes you cannot even tell if a person is home, it's like a ghost town.

By this point I was shivering and getting worried. These are the stages you reach before hypothermia, if you don't find a way out quickly.

I saw someone's door ajar and prayed that I was not making a big mistake by going in, but I didn't have many options now.

An elderly man with injured looking eyes answered the door and I asked if I could wait in his corridor with my bike while it rained. He was really kind and let me in. I took off my rain jacket and sat watching the church service with him on television. He seemed happy to have the company but I was feeling a but shell shocked and worried.

I thought about asking for a snack, as I had none left in my bag. I figure I was past the point of being able to be polite in this state. First I used the bathroom and sneekily used 'Alejandro's' towel to dry off a bit (sorry Alejandro). When I came out, Alejandro was smiling and asked if I would like some warm chocolate milk. I eagerly accepted and said thank you, and was given some biscuits too. I waited until the storm lessened, I figured this would be as good as it would get. Alejandro told me how to turn around and I thanked him profusely for everything.

I then decided to stick to the road instead of the Camino, as at least the main road has signs. 25km to go.

I'm not sure if it's my legs getting injured or stronger, but the insides of my things are sore. Cycling is so interesting as it uses very different muscles to running. I don't think that all runners are good cyclists, but I wonder if most  cyclists are naturally good runners?

It was nice to be asked by the only cyclists that I saw down the road, asked me if I was okay when I was pushing my bike up a hill. I told them that I was okay, just tired. Even if you feel really crap, and there is not much that anyone can do to help you, someone asking if you are okay, means a lot and keeps you going.

I arrived in Sahagun and the hot shower never felt so good.

The refugios differ a lot in each town, which is fun. They differ in price, spaciousness and with their amenities. Some include breakfast, some have better showers. Some are busier than others. 

At my current refugio, my legs are too big for the mattress. There is also a plastic cover for the pillow (so that staff can easily clean the pillows and prevent bed bugs). Sorry, I just can't sleep on a plastic pillow. I am removing the plastic cover and perhaps will pick up some creepy crawlies.

I am the only person so far in this giant dormitory. I could really use some company but there is none here. There is absolutely nothing in this town it seems, unless if I want to try and get friendly with someone at a car shop.

It's okay though, this is a part of my journey. I need the hard days.

Buen Camino.

Love, Rasa

Tuesday August 29

Day 9. SahagĂşn -LeĂłn (57 kilometres)

Minimum height: 800 meters
Maximum height: 910 meters
Difficulty: low
After the break on the previous day, the pilgrims return to enjoy a smooth journey to relax their legs. The profile is very flat. The moors of Leon in summer can be torturous because of the high temperatures reached in the area. The variant, via Calzadilla de los Hermanillos is a couple of kilometres longer.



Something lovely happened last night. After I arrived in Sahagun in the storm, cold and alone, the woman at the albergue was kind to me from the start. I am going to stop stating that people are speaking to me in Spanish. Unless if I state that someone is an English native speaker, then assume that all of my conversations are in Spanish. I feel that women respect other women who travel alone, as there is a certain admiration. The woman at the albergue asked me how I was when I entered the albergue. I said that today was difficult. 'What a question for me to ask' the woman replied with a sympathetic smile.

I felt a bit lonely last night and was getting ready for bed, then this same woman said to me 'I have a room that is conferrable and quiet for you' and she led me to a private room with a big bed and private bathroom. I thanked her tremendously and snuck past the male cyclists who had just arrived and were setting up camp in the dorm.

Today was wonderful. The weather was perfect and the cycle was on even ground, through the country side.







I don't need to have a revelation when I reach Santiago to know that God has always been with me and will continue to be with me. I felt it in the smiles and kindness of all the pilgrims who I encountered today, with the lovely little doggie who ran out of his house just to greet me on my bike. I felt it in the sun, in the ocher red farm fields and in the streams of sunflowers under a blue sky. My photos here are when I stopped to have a break and then twirled around the fields just generally enjoying life. I sing while I cycle and even boogie a bit (as much as you can possibly dance on a bicycle).

Each day, through the challenges and the fun times, I grow emotionally and physically stronger.

Nothing makes you appreciate a good day when you have been in a storm the day before. Also, another cyclist pointed out that my tires were a bit flat. I finally worked out how to use the awkward bike pimp from Candido, and cycling is a lot easier now!

I have arrived at this lovely albergue, packed with pilgrims and run by enthusiastic and kind volunteers. It costs 7 euros including breakfast.

On a less spiritual note, I need to try and find both bum and lip cream and some padded shorts. Both bum and mouth are on fire.


Wednesday August 30
Day 10. LeĂłn- Astorga (Kilometres)

Minimum height: 800 meters
Maximum height: 950 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Another very achievable stage both in terms of distance and profile. The terrain becomes flatter as the traveller approaches Astorga. Crossing the Bridge Paso Honroso by bike, despite the irregular stony ground, it is likely to become one of those moments that will be remembered for life.

I woke up in the middle of the night, feeling very hot an confused. I wonder if this is what all you can eat pizza and soft drink does to you before bed? Perhaps it is because 100 people are sleeping in a dorm together.

I have a routine now; breakfast, pack and dress, cycle. Have a little break every 20 km (ideally), arrive at my destination, get pilgrims passport stamped, pump up bike tires, was self, wash stuff, blog, dinner then whatever else  I have energy for (not much).

I cannot believe I am more than halfway through the journey. Only 5 days left to go. However the cycling difficulty has been low the last 3 days and it gets harder again.

I get a bit teary at the start of the ride each day, it's an emotional journey. But they are good tears. Every night I feel so exhausted that I cannot go on and every morning I am keen to get back on the Camino.

Last night I met Ella,  a German girl and some Mexican girls and we had the all you can eat pizza. Ella annoyed me at first, until she opened up to me about her vulnerabilities, as I did with her (usual Camino convos). What I soon realised is that Ella is very young, 23 and she reminds me of how I was at that age, which I probably why I felt irritated at first.

 The Mexican girls hired bikes and tried to cycle 100km but had to stop with knee and bum pain. One of the girls was crying. Its so important to listen to your body and stop when you need to. As a good experience with less kilometres is more important that ruining your body. However I understand when people try and push on  when their feet are covered in blisters and feel disappointed when they have to discontinue or cut back the journey.


All you can eat pizza and soft drink with peregrina friends in Leon.

This is art.

On that note I bought some of those tight padded nappy looking cyclist shorts. Its the best 40 euro I have spent in months.

Some people here are amazing, guys with guts cycling 100km a day. Ella smokes but hikes 35km every day, and has been hiking since earlier on in France, so she has already covered over 1000km.

It's funny hanging with Ella and the girls, they seem to think that 30 is old. I explain to them that it some ways you feel older when you are nearly 30, but in other ways, not at all. However I have gotten in a pattern of often referring to myself as an old woman, I should stop that.

Leon was beautiful, and so is Astorga.

That's it for me.

Buen Camino,
Rasa
 Thursday August 31

Day 11. Astorga – Ponferrada (54 kilometres)

Minimum height: 500 meters
Maximum height: 1504 meters
Difficulty: High
The end of the moor. The route passes through the infinite flat terrain to the highest point on the whole French Way in Spain and, all in the blink of an eye. The legs suffer once again during the climb. Lactic acid makes a re appearance. The descent is really dangerous. To not descend on the road would be completely irresponsible. A great deal of caution is required on the descent from El Acebo to Molinaseca. A monument at the foot of the Camino reminds travelers of one of the latest victims, a pilgrim German.
During the climb, there are sections with road markings, where it is also advisable to continue on the asphalt.

There is only a few days to go now. My feelings are re affirmed that I do not like hanging out with big groups of people I don't know well!

I met a nice big group of youngens, but it all feels 'too much'. I ended up paying to go inside the cathedral and palace because I felt inclined to do some. It's terrible isn't it? That I don't want to pay to go inside the cathedral in Europe? But I know myself now. I admire cathedrals from the outside, I'll have a looksie if its free (on the inside). But I'm not crazy enough about history to pay. It sucks when you start doing things because you feel you should.














Eventually, I politely made my exit and walked to a book store where I bought a romance book on Spanish to practice the language (,hopefully I actually do it). I also bought one of the only 5  English  books in the shop. I realised later after reading a part of it, that it is super weird and uncomfortably 'sexual' to say the least. I swapped it on the 'books about Camino' bookshelf in the albergue for a murder mystery. Both these books do not belong on this shelf!

One of the lovelist girls, Annie I met (from New Zealand) in the bathroom while getting ready for bed. Its funny how these things work out. I also squealed when I bumped in to her Dad Neil by surprise in the communal bathrooms at 1 in the morning (our first encounter). I bumped in to Annie and Neil on the trail today. We will keep in touch and meet at the end of the trail if our dates coincide. I think this is what makes me happy here, being independent,taking the journey on my own, meeting people and then touching base again along the way.

Astorga is very beautiful. I am going to have to start asking about the price of food and drinks BEFORE I  consume them, as I am quite sure the wait staff are making up prices for me everywhere I go.

Today, our alarm was a loud church version of 'the sounds of silence'  by Simon and Gatrfunkel and then hymn's. Its great.

There were many steep mountains to go up today, and I walked up most of them with the bike. The other cyclists (who are few and far between) always check in to see that you are okay and are then encouraging. 'venga'! 'Let's go'/ 'come on!'

I peddled back 1km up a mountain to check with the next car coming by if I was on the right track, as the way down looked like it would never end. I was on the right track and then I 'downhiled' 15km over steep road cliffs. Incredible! What an adventure! It's an amazing feeling riding downhill like that.

I spent a lot of time thinking about what 'the real world' will look for me at the other end.  I'll work it out, we all do. The important thing is that I continue to take whatever I have learned and experienced with me here, and incorporate it in to my usual life. Particularly if things feel tough of boring.

Buen Camino.

Love Rasa

Friday September 1

Day 12. Ponferrada -O Cebreiro (50 kilometres)

Minimum height: 460 meters
Maximum height: 1320 meters
Difficulty: Very High
Along with the baptism of fire in the Pyrenees of Navarre, this day is truly the queen of stages of the Camino de Santiago The mountain is at its finest. The climb to O Cebreiro is not without its difficulties, it can be completed on the traditional path, but to leave Las HerrerĂ­as, the last village before the ascend, there are several signs painted on the asphalt to direct cyclists. The arrival to Galicia compensates the suffering. Except for the arrival to Villafranca, with the odd slope, the first section of the stage is peaceful. It is worth reserving strength for the last few kilometres.


Today I reached the highest peak at El Camino - 1320 metres!

Last night in Ponferrada, I was able go enjoy the company of Oscar and Sarah, an Aussie and English/ Spanish cycling couple. They are intelligent, curious, kind, funny and open. They inflated my tires for me as I think my pump doesn't work. I came back from checking in to my dorm, and voila! Sturdy tires and a smiling couple to enjoy food with. And on Wednesdays you get to see all the attractions for free! The castle was so beautiful with a lovely little library inside. I had a 4 bed ladies only dorm at the albergue which only asked for a donation to stay there. Sara and Oscar are such a delight to talk to, and I wish I could keep them with me on the journey.






 Oscar is a cycling enthusiast. He told me he spotted my bike (Candido's bike) somwhere along the camino and said; 'that is a fantastic old school mountain bike'.

Later in the trip Sarah messaged me again and found a photo of a yellow bike that Oscar liked very much, as it turns out,  this was my yellow bike parked in Leon!




What a beautiful day, the most amazing views of Galicia. I enjoyed every minute. I have been able to experience every kind of temperature, scenery and terrain.

The morning was foggy and mystical and when the sun came out, it  really did feel like god was with me!

I stopped at a cafe, bracing myself before the big hills before I heading towards the steep incline of the mountains. I met a young 7 foot tall Aussie, Steve, who has been doing cycling training for 2 months to prepare for cycling half of the Camino. I tell Steve that I dont do much cycling at home but have been cycling since France. This surprises Steve. I tell Steve that I will wave to him and cheer him on as he cycles up the mountain and I walk my bike.

But do you know what? My piece of paper says it is 5km to the top. And I cycled non stop, up the mountain for 5km until 50km. Then I realised that the Mountain kept going!

I'm so happy that I could cycle all that way up. At 50km, the crux, I couldn't be happier as I met Jen and Jilly, some UK cyclists,as strong as iron and with hearts of gold. We cycled up the peak together for another 10km. The view could not be more breathtaking and I could not have better company.

When we reach O Cebreiro we celebrate by eating our 3 course meal with wine and chat for hours.

And, Ive bumped in to some Aussies (Jane and Stewart) I met at a cafe days ago! They are walking the Camino but are short on time.  So they for a train here and will cycle with me tomorrow. The Spanish bike hire place didn't give them a bike lock, so our 3 bikes are locked together.

I met Steve back at the albergue. Steve didn't make it up all the hills, and I beat him here. His ego was a bit crushed, sorry Steve.


Stopping in the lovely town of Villafranca for a hot choccie is a good idea.



Here is one clue to know where you are going.

Extra clear direction, very good.

Not so clear, but it is something.

My usual albergue set up. Pink silk sleeping liner to stay warm and clothes drying at the end of the bed. Routine of the day: breakfast, leave by 8am at the latest, stop every 20 km for a snack, sunscreen and a stretch. Pee and water breaks all the way through. Arrive in next town, check in to albergue, stamp pilgrim passport, wash clothes, maybe a nap, dinner and maybe socialise, blog and bed.


This is one of my favourite photos. All the pilgrims shoes, and behind, the highest peak of the Camino.

The usual albergue chaos.



 Saturday September 2

13. O Cebreiro – Sarria (40 kilometres)

Minimum height: 450 meters
Maximum height: 1330 meters
Difficulty: Medium
There is a steep slope to crown the peak of Poio. From this point the descent begins. The arrival to Triacastela is complicated due to stony slopes. From this village there are two possibilities to get to Sarria. The original one runs through San Xil, somewhat shorter but also with a demanding section. The other variant passes through Samos, the location of the famous monastery.


Another wonderful day involving about 30km of extreme downhill down a mountain in Galicia in the cold and the fog. You cannot feel more alive than this. The view is breathtaking and the feeling of frozen fingers is intense!
 
The monestery  in Somos. I love seeing how the shell symbol is incorporated in signs and in infrastructure.

I could be one of the silent assassins from Game of Thrones. You can feel how cold it is here before we leave for the bike ride though, can't you?

Jane and Stewart, my new Aussie friends came along for the ride. I'm happy I'm keeping an open mind. I think in normal life, I would probably never even meet these two, as we are such different people, living different lives but they have hearts of gold and we age sharing the Camino together, so we can bond intensely with this experience. They have been very kind to me, shouting me drinks, chippies and lollies and giving me a brand new tube of paw paw ointment which I have missed so much! 


After 20km downhill, we stop in a nearby village to warm our hands and souls with coffees and hot chocolates. Steve, lanky Aussie, who I have decided, takes himself too damn seriously gives us crap for accessing the WiFi in the cafe. I'm happy I am someone who tried not to react instantaneously. What I wanted to say was that it was not unreasonable for a solo female traveller to want to let her Mum that she hadn't died on a mountain after being away on Europe for months. PS Steve, I dont think you need to take 3 months off work just to plan your trip to Europe. Anyway, let's keep our opinions to ourselves shall we! PPS Steve, I beat you up the mountain again. It's not a competition, unless if you are up against a bit of a tosser. Then it is absolutely a competition. 

It was great to arrive in Sarria at lunchtime instead of the late afternoon/ early evening and eat lunch time, at lunch time! We had our menu de peregrinos, with 2 courses, desert and wine and discussed out different experiences on the Camino and 'what it all means'. We plan to meet up in Santiago at the end, which would be so great.
Jane, Stewart and Rasa, and all the food.

The mosquitoes have caught me here. I can't see, hear or feel them. However in typical Rasa style, I have accumulated about 20 bites that have turned in to big red welts. I've started some steroids, as well as antihistamines at night and every repellent and topical cream. It usually does nothing to help, and I continue to look like I have the plague, and that's okay. The plus side is that I have a citronella wrist band that has this groovy pink pattern which matches my pink runners, my pink wind proof jacket and my black and pink cycling shorts! Jane suggested I buy 4 wrist bands and place them on both hands and feet. The lady at the pharmacy felt this was a citronella overdose but complimented me on my Spanish. :)

I am two days from Santiago. I am sitting in my bunk writing this, crying happy tears. I am overwhelmed my the amazing experiences the Camino has given me as well as every experience and opportunity I have been given in Europe since May this year. I know now that I have no reason to doubt myself. I have not felt this happy in so long. I have reconnected with my old friends in Europe and made beautiful connections with many more new friends. 

I am excited to see my friends and family in Australia soon and to be in Santiago. But of course in many ways, I don't want to reach Santiago as I don't want this to end.

For many of us, we have the opportunity to do many amazing things. Whether that be in our relationships, in parenting, in work, in adventure in caring for others. A small few of us, are given a leg up, due to our status in the world. But many opportunities are being missed. The world will open doors at times for opportunity, but sometimes we need to take a risk and steer our course.

No matter what happens after this, I will never regret steering my course to make all this happen. I endeavors to take my big bag of experiences and my relationships, no matter where I go.

Thank you El Camino, for having me on the journey.

Buen Camino,
Rasa


Sunday September 3

Day 14. Sarria – Palas de Rei (40 kilometres)

Minimum height: 360 meters
Maximum height: 730 meters
Difficulty: Medium
This stage can only be described as short but treacherous. The first stretch is smooth but can become complicated in times of rain because the ground can become muddy and, to unimaginable levels in rural Galicia. Towards the end of the placid descent to PortomarĂ­n the most complicated and demanding stretch of the stage begins, on uneven ground and with considerable slopes.


Today was a big day! I would got the difficulty of this cycle as high, or very high, not medium! Perhaps I am feeling extra tired as I am due to arrive in Santiago tomorrow.

The route sure was complicated, like a  windy maze of bridges, stony, rocky, muddy and uneven ground full of hills. I felt like I was in 'Mario cart'! It was tough but I loved it.

It was great to ride through all the farmland. Normally I don't mind the smell of a bit of cow or horse manure, as to me, it just smells earthy and reminds me of the beautiful place that I am in, surrounded by lovely creatures. However, the smell of manure through majority of this ride, was beyond intense. 

The smells of the Camino are all a part of the great journey. Sometimes the smells can also confuse you. For example at times, you think 'why does it smell like it is burning'? 'Why does that mechanic shop smell like a bakery'?

The weather was beautiful, crisp and fresh with the sun rising in the morning and dappled shade in the afternoon.









I was scratching my mozzie bites all night, as you can't seem to stop yourself doing that when you are groggy on antihistamines. As it turns out, because I am 0 negative blood type, the mozzies love me. I also have an autoimmune disease which means I flare up more and take longer to heal. Its nice when it all makes sense!

Yesterday in Sarria at lunch, with my Aussie couple friends, they briefly introduced me to their Brazilian friend '. He brushed my arm when he met me and smiled warmly, and it felt good. I asked my Aussie friends what his story was. I am told that he is half Brazilian and half Spanish, they say he is kind and single. He lived in Australia for 2 years and loved it. 
Today on the trail, Jane and Stewart saw me and tried to block me as a joke to get me to stop. I didn't actually realise it was them so I laughed and kept going. Later when I decided to have a break, they caught up with me, and I was delighted. Oh and Mister Brazil was there too, all smiley and modest and handsome.

Another Aussie woman, friends with Jane, offered me a brand new cycling t shirt that she will not use as she is hiking. I asked her if I could give her some money for it, but she told me all I had to do was give her a hug. It even matches my cycling gloves! So kind.

I explained that my $10 quick dry shirt from k mart has been worn in Europe for months now. It still smells sweaty even after you wash it. It also is covered in tire marks from when I pinned it to my pannier bags when it was still wet and got caught up in the wheels.

I was really inclined to chuck it in the bin, no one can want this shirt, no one. My friends say that I might be surprised and to leave it on a rock in case if someone wants it. Who knows, maybe someone will tip it in half to make a sling or a bandanna.

I got lost and ended up on some farm road where an aggressive dog chased me on my bike. A poor Spanish Peregrina followed me in the wrong way until she saw ms turning back. In glad she saw me turn back before she encountered the dog.

Lots of stray cats around. I want to adopt them all of course. I saw one carrying a dead chicken today.

The mal again said that the trail would be 40km, but again, it was 50km. The difference of me cycling 10km means me missing lunch as I think I will arrive on time. This makes me hangry, and that is not good for anyone. But, the Camino will bring you all experiences!

With 5km left, I stop, hangrily and drink a chocolate milk, eat some chippies and skittles and continue on. When I arrive, as tradition, I eat my 3 course meal with wine. :)

The albergue here is funny. The lady who owns it/ runs it, clearly doesnt give too much of a crap about anyone of anything. The shower is hilarious as the hardly Luke warm water  turns off every 5 seconds, so you dont event have enough time to get wet before you need to press the button for more water again!

When I arrive, Stewart and Jane message me with a photo of us, and a message from Mister Brazil saying that he was hoping we would stop in the same town to keep each other warm. I pass back on another msg through Stewart, saying that I look forward to seeing them all in Santiago soon. I have asked Stewart to swat away the silly 20 year olds away from him until Santiago. :p

If all goes to plan, I will ride 70km tomorrow to arrive in Santiago. I can't believe it. 

I will have ten days in Santiago before Priscila meets me. What will I do? Honestly aside from hanging out with trail buddies at the end, I am keen to chill. Movies and writing and sleep will be good I think. I also saw a sign talking about reflective prayer and group reflection in Santiago, which might be nice to try out.

I think it gets busy in Santiago , so I feel inclined to book some accommodation now in advance. At the same time though, Ive also learned that the less I plan here, the better. We will see what happens!

Buen Camino.

Love Rasa

 Monday September 4

Day 15. Palas de Rei -Santiago (69 kilometres)

Minimum height: 290 meters
Maximum height: 560 meters
Difficulty: Medium- High
The last day’s march and, the point at which energy levels begin to falter but having Santiago a stone’s throw away encourages you to make one last effort. The climb to ArzĂşa has complicated slopes comparable to the legendary climb to Monte do Gozo. The distance is considerable. Also bear in mind that some areas may be very muddy.

Today was part two of Mario cart. Yesterday was a the moo moo meadows level, and today a mixture of moo moo meadows and bowers castle.

I am getting much better on these hills and am enjoying the rough and tumble of downhill mountain biking. The bouncey bounce and jumpey jump of tires over rocks and stones is a good way to stay mindful.

I ate my morning tea with the cows and enjoyed the different smells of pine and eucalyptus through the Forrest. Yes, eucalyptus! 

I can barely keep my eyes open writing this.


I had so much anticipation to get to Santiago, that I cannot be surprised that it felt like an anti climax somehow. Firstly, I got lost. When I finally reached Santiago, I thought there would be a big ceremony of something? Instead it was a big line up (one hour)to retrieve my pilgrim certificate, where I  realised later that they spelled my name as 'Rosa'. Then it was scramble in the rain to find and overpriced and fairly unfriendly albergue. Then I went to meet some others that I net in the trail, couldnt find the bar and then they left as it was getting late. There are tons of wierdos walking around and lots of people asking me for money.

I told myself I wasn't expecting a pot of gold at the end, but I guess I was.

Now I am thinking about all the things I need to do, errands, looking for work and  freaking out about what the emotional consequences might be if I get together with this Brazilian boy. Also, I have finished the Camino now, all 777km of it. That's an odd feeling.

I guess in a lot of ways, completing a pilgrimage is a bit like completing a marathon. There is all the build up, preparation, anticipation, blood sweat and tears and then you reach the end. It feels like you have somehow changed the world, in which you have not, but your works has changed. Then you expect lots of gold stars. The reality is that a few people will give you a pat on the back, and then everyone gets back to their day to day things. Its better that way, it teaches you to be humble.

One of the guys from my albergue and another guys saw me walking past and offered me a beer. It was a good way to finish the day, but I couldn't stay for long, I am too emotionally and physically worn out.

Ive splashed out and paid 7 euros to wash and dry my clothes. I'm grateful to have a bed with supplied sheets and a blanket, even when I am in the top bunk of a dorm of 4.

I made it. Tomorrow I can have time to readjust, relax, and realise what I have achieved and where I am, while I slowly chip away at life administration.

Buen Camino.

Love Rasa



Monday September 4

All feels a bit better today. Now that I realise that it is normal to feel a bit deflated after completing such a big expedition.

 Morning jog in Santiago, no bike today:




 Candido asked me 'do you miss the bike?' I say, ' I don't miss the bike and I do at the same time!' One day at a time. Tomorrow I can start to breath in Santiago. I will visit the Cathedral, but only when I feel ready, as I feel this is a bit symbolic of me keeping some peace within me. And of course, what makes everything in life good, the relationships we keep with others.



I made it.

As it turns out, I am Rosa Kabaila (in latin), who has completed 799 km from France to Spain.


Sunday September 10

It's only been about 5 days since I wrote, but I feel like a lot has happened.

I met up with my Australian friends, Stewart and Jane and Mister Brazil when they arrived in Santiago and we celebrated.

Jane and Stewart made their way to Portugal and then me and mister Brazil decided to go to Finisterra, the coast, which was previously known as 'the end of the world'. It is a beautiful little coast town of about 5 thousand people. We made it in time to see the sunset.

Photos from Finisterra:











The three days with Mr Brazil in Santiago and Finisterra coincided with my birthday (on the 7th of September) and they were a weird three days.

Mr Brazil asked if I would share my travel blog link with him, and I said I would, but... I won't!

How to summarise.... overseas romances are short, intense and somewhat confusing, fun but also difficult, at the best of times.

However, I feel, if you are going to do them, you may as well be 100% in. Saying goodbye is hard for both people, but trying to make boundaries doesn't make the goodbye any easier.

Having extreme hot and cold encounters with Mr Brazil left me feeling pretty crap. The last two romances I have had in Spain, I put both of the behaviors down to attachment difficulties due to the relationships with their father (having known  a bit of what the relationship was from what they told me). Putting it down to this, makes you feel less hurt. But the thing is, someone being hot and cold with intimacy, does make you feel like crap.

I ended up having a  calm conversation with Mister Brazil on the beach on my birthday, saying that I find the hot and cold thing hard to deal with, that I am not a robot, I am human. I re explained that I knew that this was not a reklationship, and how thes things work and how our time is limited. I didn't get much back. I was reminded that he thinks I'm a great person and really likes my company but is just not really an affectionate person.

Long story short, when we got back to Santiago, I found my own accommodation and was walking for 3km with a heavy backpack up hills, in tears, with no one to talk to.

The hostel was way out of the city, and I prayed it would be worth the trouble. When I arrived, I was greeted by manuel, one of the owners. Manuel is one of the friendliest and kindest people you would meet and the hostel, which really is a home, is beautiful and a true demonstration of how much Manuel and his family care about the house and their guests.

I realised I had one friend I could call, Nicole, in America. I called Nicole and sobbed. Nicole, soon to be a clinical psychologist, was validating and said 'so he has attachment issues and you are a lot more emotionally intelligent than him, that is not your fault.'  During the conversation, my new roomie, Simon came to greet me. I told him I was a mess, but I didn't need to tell him that for him to believe it. Simon said he would make me some tea and said that I could tell him all about my woes.

About 5 minutes later, Simon came in again and asked if I was vegetarian. Another 10 minutes later, Simon told me that 'dinner was ready'. This time I sobbed and laughed simultaneously. I can't believe a person who just met me, could be this kind to me. Simone even offered to take me out, but I said I was happy just to chat with him. My friend Ella from the Camino also tried to coax me out to cheer me up. I am very blessed.


Thank you Simon. You fixed everything.
Simon  was super validating and sweet and shared his own story of having his fiance break up with him about a year ago. Simon has now finished a teaching degree, he is an iron man, he is positive, he avoids making plans whenever he can to live in the moment and lives life for him.

My conversation with Nicole and my time with Simon are the proof of great people in your life and great experiences becoming visible in difficult times.

Before bed, I met another Pilgrim, Patrick from Ireland who is feeling a bit low after finishing the Camino. Patrick told me he was going on a free walking tour the next day, and I said 'I'll join'!

In the morning, we met with Ella, who gave me loads of cuddles and kisses (also studying to be a psychologist, so she was also super validating).  Ella tagged along for a part of the walking tour, so that we could hang out more. Ella is super tall and modelesque. She held me tight as we listened to the tour guide. Maybe I will fall in love with Ella!

With a bit of time to breath and love from others, I realise again that there is nothing I want to change about me, in the way that I give love to others. I would rather give love and  feel burnt sometimes then protect myself and be cold.

We learned about the buildings in Santiago, and more about the history of the pilgrimage

Photos from the free walking tour today in Santiago.


Under construction. The Cathedral in Santiago is looking a bit like Sagrada Familia in Barcelona!



I took this photo by accident, but how great is it! Look at that sneeky happy face of Patrick!



Rasa, Patrick and the 'Two Maria's'.
Here is a little story about the two Maria's, who were known to give the boys bottoms  a little tap in the street!

The sisters were raised in a family of  13 siblings. During the regime of Franco, three of the brothers had an active role in the Confederacion Nacional del Trabajo, an organisation fighting against the sovereignty of the Spanish general. The story goes, the brothers were arrested and detained in the early 1950s and experienced consistent emotional abuse, torture and excessive physical brutality. Upon release, a brother passed due to injury whilst the other two went into hiding.  The family was consistently interogated as to their where abouts as well as persecuted for harbouring fugitives. The impact of this led to the death of the women’s parents and many of the siblings.

Both ladies were trained as a seastress; however, because of the pressures and attention on the family, they were often unable to find work. Many of the locals were known to donate food and other items to the women.  In the early 1960s, it was reported that a storm tore down the roof of their home and the town collected 250,00 pesetas in donations which at the time was enough money for the ladies to purchase a new flat.

Along with another sister who later died, the ladies would habitually enter Alameda Park at 2 PM dressed in bright clothing, high heels and even brighter make-up. They would gallivant around and flirt with the local university students.   Many locals suggest the women experienced poor mental health due to the trauma which led to this exuberant behaviour; whilst others thought the women were simply trying to find some enjoyment in their troublesome life. The women were regularly seen until the 1980s when Maruxa passed. Coralia left the town of Santiago and died three years later.

The statues were laid by sculptor Cesar Lambera in 1994 in memory of the two women. Many locals depict the Two Marias as unwell and flirtatious; whilst others view their lives and statues as a symbol of the fight against oppression and inequality.  Following your Camino de Santiago, if you have any steps left in you, go and visit the Two Marias and decide for yourself.  Whether you see the ladies as freedom fighters or tarty older women; the ladies definitely continue to impact the modern day town of Santiago de Compostela!


After the walking tour, Patrick and I headed to the market and ate fresh seafood with wine while having conversations about our reasons for doing the Camino; what we have found and what we still might be wanting to find in our lives.



Then we had churros!

I told  Patrick that I have been afraid of going to church, as I feel this is the sign of my trip coming to a closure, and that I'm a bit scared of the next step. Patrick said he would come to mass with me, we visited the cathedral, then went to another church  were we listened to the nuns singing after.

A lot of the pilgrims have been upset, because they expected the incense burner to swing, like how it does in the movie 'The Way'. Except, what we have found out, is that the church will only swing the incense burner if they receive a 400 Euro donation.

My friend Stewart made this cheeky photo in annoyance:



Here, I could pray. I thanked god, for everything and I prayed for everyone,. I thanked god for all my experiences, even the difficult ones I have no regrets.




At 11pm, a big group of us finally made our way to meet each other to start the party.

Inexpensive and delicious wine with free tapas and lovely international friends is amazing. here is our group from Australia, The Netherlands, Brazil, Ireland, America and Germany.
Following the big day in the city, I think I might be sick or run down. I've still managed to go running and get lost in the forest and I am walking 'Nicko' each day, the beautiful dog that belongs to the family at the hostel.

Getting lost on a forest run, with the scratches to prove it!

Another accidental photo. But I love it. It's a little 'I'm a bit lost' isn't it?

The view of Santiago from our lovely hostel.

Walk me!

I love Nicko.

Okay, okay, let's go!


I'm happy to have some time to rest and write. Tonight I might go to the pilgrims mass and then have a meal in the city, we'll see. In two days, my beautiful friend Priscila from Switzerland, will be meeting me and we'll go to the coast. :) Then it is Paris with someone from couchsurfing and then home...

I was offered a job in New Zealand, but I've turned it down as I think there are jobs  that will be a better fit for me out there. It's a strange feeling when you think you know what you want, and then it's given to you, and then you realise that maybe your priorities are different to how you thought they were. I have so many idea of what I MIGHT want to do, but the idea of making any decision in that regard freaks me out a bit right now. But first things first, I just have to make the next little step and then see how that feels. Poco a poco (bit by bit).

 Saturday September 16

Since I wrote last, I did eventually make it to the Pilgrim's mass at Santiago Cathedral, and I'm glad that I did. The priest told us at the end of the mass, that he hoped that what we experienced and learned on El Camino, would be things that would follow us through life. I hope so too.

Again, me and the Netherland boys and Patrick met for drinks at 1030pm. I can not keep up this lifestyle at home. These late nights kill me! But overseas, I do them, and smile. You have limited time with people here and you need to make the most of every minute with each other.







I'm sitting in an albergue in Santiago.

I have just returned from Sanxenxo,  a little town in the Galician coast of Spain in the North, with my beautiful friend Priscila from Switzerland. Priscila flew in to  Santiago meet me. Priscila is my soul sister from the other side of the world.

I was just walking in to buy a glass of wine from a cafe to obtain some wifi and text Priscila, and then I bumped in to her!  A hundred cuddles and kisses were exchanged, Priscila got a glass of wine for herself and our second honeymoon began.

I'm finding it hard to write this, as Priscila has just left on her flight to see her family in Gran Canaria, and I'm sad to see her go. But as I said to her also, let's not make this goodbye, just see you soon.

I'm doing well in trying to convince Priscila to study on exchange at ANU in Canberra.

Priscila and I connect on all levels really. She is very spiritual, she always wants to help others, on small and larger scales, we love talking about relationships, we joke together, we both always try to be optimistic and we are open books.


Now that, is a hot chocolate.



A typical display, Rasa's hand washing on the rails with a beautiful view behind it.

Cheese icecream in a salad with balsamic vinegar. Spanish food is amazing.

We walked around this cute little town through the markets to find Priscila a a toe ring. No tow ring, but this town is cute!We were able to sample some ice cold almond liquer (local), so I bought a bottle of it to take home.



It's hard to  sum up all the beautiful conversations that we had about everything, but this feels like perhaps my second or 3rd honeymoon with Priscila. First Bali, then Swtizerland, now the coast of Spain.

Off we went on our train and then a bus to Sanxenxo, a small coastal town in Galicia in Spain (in the North).

It's a small town and we had a lovely shared hotel room by the beach. This was all such a treat after staying in albergues with grotty peregrinos (not discounting my grottiness) for a few weeks.

Every morning we did yoga and went for a run on the beach. I swam every day. The water is quite fresh this time of year. Swimming in cold water in the ocean, with the whole beach to yourself, is such a positive way to start the day and change your body chemistry.

We went to a day spa and got pedicures and massages, and then got in trouble in the sauna for going in naked.

We had siestas, ate all the seafood and drank all the wine.

I'm so grateful to have Priscila in my life.



Witches in Galicia are meant to bring you good luck.
'L Madama' st is the work of Galician sculptor Alfonso Vilar Lamelas and has become the most representative icon of the town of Sanxenxo. This sculpture characterizes its location as it is perched on a rock (The Stone Corbeiro) in the same sea at the start of the boardwalk. It was donated in 1995 by the same author as a sign of love for the city and is inspired by Celtic mythology and symbolizes the beauty of the sea.

'La Madama' from afar. This is where Priscila had our morning run and swim each day.














Tomorrow I take two flights to go to Paris where I will meet my new couchsurfing host Adam and will hopefully have dinner with Priscila's friend Pablo who I have not yet met.

And then I make my way back to Australia. How great, how sad, how strange all at once. One day at a time Rasa, one day at a time.

Gracias Camino de Santiago, Spain, and all my beautiful friends here.


Buen Camino,
Con amor,
Rasa